The sacramental season brought together to Kilbride some of the other
clergymen of Skye, whom it was always a pleasure to meet. They were a
race of earnest, hardworking, and intelligent men,[6] though, having
remained in the Establishment, they would have been stigmatised by
the seceding party as ‘Moderates’ who had clung to their loaves and
fishes, in spite of the example of the Free Kirk. I remember being
especially struck by Mr. Macrae of Glenelg and Mr. Martin of Snizort.
With Mr. Macrae I had afterwards more intercourse. Over and above his
ministerial duties, to which he conscientiously devoted himself, his
great delight in life was to be on the sea. He had a little yacht
or cutter, on which he lived as much as he could, and which, as it
passed up and down the lochs and kyles, was as familiar as Hutcheson’s
steamers. He was never happier than when, with his two daughters, he
could entertain some friend on a cruise in these waters, and tell
what he knew about the ruins and legends of the district--the Pictish
towers, the mouldering Barracks, the traditions of 1715 and 1745, the
Spanish invasion, the battle of Glen Shiel, the naval pursuit and
the battering down of Eilean Donan Castle. Once when I was staying
at Inverinate, the minister landed there from his little vessel, and
hearing that I wished to examine a piece of the Skye shore south of
Kyle Rhea, was delighted to offer to convey me there and back next
day. My host jocularly remarked that the visit would be sooner made
by land and crossing the Kyle at the ferry, than by trusting to the
minister. The little cruise, however, was arranged, according to Mr.
Macrae’s desire, and he duly dropped anchor in front of Inverinate next
morning. We started early, and, with a gentle south-easterly breeze and
unclouded sky, made good progress down Loch Duich. But the wind soon
fell, and we crept more and more slowly past the ruined Eilean Donan
into Loch Alsh. There could not have been a more glorious day for a
lazy excursion, or a nobler landscape to gaze upon, as hour slipped
after hour. Behind us rose the great range of the Seven Sisters of
Kintail, in front were the hills of Sleat with the Cuillins peering up
behind them, all suffused with the varying tints of the atmosphere.
It was a source of keen interest to watch how the hues of peak and
crag which one had actually climbed, were transformed in this aerial
alembic, and one felt the truth of Dyer’s beautiful lines:
Mark yon summits, soft and fair,
Clad in colours of the air,
Which to those who journey near,
Barren, brown, and rough appear.
[Sidenote: A NAUTICAL MINISTER]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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