Scrambles Amongst the Alps In the years 1860-69 By Edward Whymper [Illustration] London J. Murray 1871 Toil and pleasure, in their natures opposite, are yet linked together in a kind of necessary connection.—LIVY. Contents PREFACE CHAPTER I. INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER II. THE ASCENT OF MONT PELVOUX. CHAPTER III. THE MONT CENIS—THE FELL RAILWAY CHAPTER IV. MY FIRST SCRAMBLE ON THE MATTERHORN CHAPTER V. RENEWED ATTEMPTS TO ASCEND THE MATTERHORN CHAPTER VI. THE VAL TOURNANCHE—THE BREUILJOCH—ZERMATT—ASCENT OF THE GRAND TOURNALIN CHAPTER VII. OUR SIXTH ATTEMPT TO ASCEND THE MATTERHORN CHAPTER VIII. FROM ST. MICHEL TO LA BÉRARDE ON THE MONT CENIS ROAD, BY THE COL DES AIGUILLES, D’ARVE, COL DE MARTIGNARE AND THE BRÈCHE DE LA MEIJE CHAPTER IX. THE ASCENT OF THE POINTE DES ÉCRINS CHAPTER X. FROM VAL LOUISE TO LA BÉRARDE BY THE COL DE PILATTE CHAPTER XI. PASSAGE OF THE COL DE TRIOLET, AND ASCENTS OF MONT DOLENT, AIGUILLE DE TRÉLATÊTE AND AIGUILLE D’ARGENTIÈRE CHAPTER XII. THE MOMING PASS—ZERMATT CHAPTER XIII. THE ASCENT OF THE GRAND CORNIER CHAPTER XIV. THE ASCENT OF THE DENT BLANCHE CHAPTER XV. LOST ON THE COL D’HÉRENS—MY SEVENTH ATTEMPT TO ASCEND THE MATTERHORN CHAPTER XVI. VALLEY OF AOSTA, AND ASCENT OF THE GRANDES JORASSES CHAPTER XVII. THE COL DOLENT CHAPTER XVIII. ASCENT OF THE AIGUILLE VERTE CHAPTER XIX. THE COL DE TALÈFRE CHAPTER XX. ASCENT OF THE RUINETTE—THE MATTERHORN CHAPTER XXI. THE ASCENT OF THE MATTERHORN CHAPTER XXII. DESCENT OF THE MATTERHORN APPENDIX List of Illustrations Full Page Illustrations 1. FOG-BOW SEEN FROM THE MATTERHORN ON JULY 14, 1885 2. MONT PELVOUX AND THE ALÉFROIDE, FROM NEAR MONT DAUPHIN 3. THE MONT CENIS ROAD AND THE FELL RAILWAY NEAR THE SUMMIT OF THE PASS, ON THE ITALIAN SIDE 4. THE MATTERHORN FROM NEAR THE SUMMIT OF THE THEODULE PASS 5. “THE CHIMNEY” 6. “IN ATTEMPTING TO PASS THE CORNER I SLIPPED AND FELL” 7. A CANNONADE ON THE MATTERHORN (1862) 8. THE CRAGS OF THE MATTERHORN, DURING THE STORM, MIDNIGHT, AUGUST 10, 1863 9. DESCENDING THE WESTERN ARÊTE OF THE POINTE DES ÉCRINS 10. “WE SAW A TOE—IT SEEMED TO BELONG TO MOORE—WE SAW REYNAULD A FLYING BODY.” 11. THE SUMMIT OF THE MOMING PASS IN 1861 12. THE CLUB-ROOM OF ZERMATT IN 1864 13. THE BERGSCHRUND ON THE DENT BLANCHE IN 1865 14. THE MATTERHORN FROM THE RIFFELBERG 15. THE GRANDES JORASSES AND THE DOIRE TORRENT, VAL FERRET (D’ITALIE) 16. THE SUMMIT OF THE COL DOLENT 17. PINNACLES NEAR SACHAS IN THE VALLEY OF THE DURANCE, FORMED FROM AN OLD MORAINE In the Text