Scrambles Amongst the Alps in the Years 1860-69Whymper, Edward
History
Scrambles Amongst the Alps in the Years 1860-69
Whymper, Edward
Alps -- Description and travel; Mountaineering -- Alps -- History -- 19th century; Mountaineers -- Biography; Whymper, Edward, 1840-1911
That camp-fire is a pleasant reminiscence. The wine-cask had got
through all its troubles: it was tapped, and the Frenchmen seemed to
derive some consolation from its execrable contents. Reynaud chanted
scraps of French songs, and each contributed his share of joke, story
or verse. The weather was perfect, and our prospects for the morrow
were good. My companions’ joy culminated when a packet of red fire was
thrown into the flames. It hissed and bubbled for a moment or two, and
then broke out into a grand flare. The effect of the momentary light
was magnificent: all around the mountains were illuminated for a
second, and then relapsed into their solemn gloom. One by one our party
dropped off to sleep, and at last I got into my blanket-bag. It was
hardly necessary, for although we were at a height of at least seven
thousand feet, the minimum temperature was above 40° Fahrenheit.
We roused at three, but did not start till half-past four. Giraud had
been engaged as far as this rock only, but as he wished to go on, we
allowed him to accompany us. We mounted the slopes, and quickly got
above the trees, then had a couple of hours’ clambering over bits of
precipitous rock and banks of _débris_, and at a quarter to seven got
to a narrow glacier—Clos de l’Homme—which streamed out of the plateau
on the summit, and nearly reached the glacier de Sapenière. We worked
as much as possible to the right, in hope that we should not have to
cross it, but were continually driven back, and at last we found that
it was necessary to do so. Old Sémiond had a strong objection to the
ice, and made explorations on his own account to endeavor to avoid it;
but Reynaud and I preferred to cross it, and Giraud stuck to us. It was
narrow—in fact, one could throw a stone across it—and was easily
mounted on the side, but in the centre swelled into a steep dome, up
which we were obliged to cut. Giraud stepped forward and said he should
like to try his hand, and having got hold of the axe, would not give it
up; and here, as well as afterward when it was necessary to cross the
gullies filled with hard snow which abound on the higher part of the
mountain, he did all the work, and did it admirably.
Old Sémiond of course came after us when we got across. We then
zigzagged up some snow-slopes, and shortly afterward commenced to
ascend the interminable array of buttresses which are the great
peculiarity of the Pelvoux. They were very steep in many places, but on
the whole afforded a good hold, and no climbing should be called
difficult which does that. Gullies abounded among them, sometimes of
great length and depth. _They_ were frequently rotten, and would have
been difficult for a single man to pass. The uppermost men were
continually abused for dislodging rocks and for harpooning those below
with their bâtons. However, without these incidents the climbing would
have been dull: they helped to break the monotony.
[Illustration: BUTTRESSES OF MONT PELVOUX]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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