Scrambles Amongst the Alps in the Years 1860-69Whymper, Edward
History
Scrambles Amongst the Alps in the Years 1860-69
Whymper, Edward
Alps -- Description and travel; Mountaineering -- Alps -- History -- 19th century; Mountaineers -- Biography; Whymper, Edward, 1840-1911
My guide and I arrived at Breuil on he 28th of August, 1861, and we
found that Professor Tyndall _had_ been there a day or two before, but
had done nothng. I had seen the mountain from nearly every direction,
and it seemed, even to a novice like myself, far too much for a single
day. I intended to sleep out upon it as high as possible, and to
attempt to reach the summit on the following day. We endeavored to
induce another man to accompany us, but without success. Matthias zum
Taugwald and other well-known guides were there at the time, but they
declined to go on any account. A sturdy old fellow—Peter Taugwalder by
name—said he would go. His price? “Two hundred francs.” “What! whether
we ascend or not?” “Yes—nothing less.” The end of the matter was, that
all the men who were more or less capable showed a strong
disinclination or positively refused to go (their disinclination being
very much in proportion to their capacity), or else asked a prohibitive
price. This, it may be said once for all, was the reason why so many
futile attempts were made upon the Matterhorn. One first-rate guide
after another was brought up to the mountain and patted on the back,
but all declined the business. The men who went had no heart in the
matter, and took the first opportunity to turn back,[5] for they were,
with the exception of one man—to whom reference will be made
presently—universally impressed with the belief that the summit was
entirely inaccessible.
[5] The guide Bennen must be excepted.
We resolved to go alone, but, anticipating a cold bivouac, begged the
loan of a couple of blankets from the innkeeper. He refused them,
giving the curious reason that we had bought a bottle of brandy at Val
Tournanche, and had not bought any from him! No brandy, no blankets,
appeared to be his rule. We did not require them that night, as it was
passed in the highest cow-shed in the valley, which is about an hour
nearer to the mountain than is the hotel. The cowherds, worthy fellows
seldom troubled by tourists, hailed our company with delight, and did
their best to make us comfortable, brought out their little stores of
simple food, and, as we sat with them round the great copper pot which
hung over the fire, bade us in husky voice, but with honest intent, to
beware of the perils of the haunted cliffs. When night was coming on we
saw stealing up the hillside the forms of Jean-Antoine Carrel and the
comrade. “Oh ho!” I said, “you have repented?” “Not at all: you deceive
yourself.” “Why, then, have you come here?” “Because we ourselves are
going on the mountain tornorrow.” “Oh, then it is _not_ necessary to
have more than three?” “Not for _us._” I admired their pluck, and had a
strong inclination to engage the pair, but final ly decided against it.
The comrade turned out to be the J. J. Carrel who had been with Mr.
Hawkins, and was nearly related to the other man.
[Illustration: JEAN-ANTOINE CARREL (1869)]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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