Scrambles Amongst the Alps in the Years 1860-69Whymper, Edward
History
Scrambles Amongst the Alps in the Years 1860-69
Whymper, Edward
Alps -- Description and travel; Mountaineering -- Alps -- History -- 19th century; Mountaineers -- Biography; Whymper, Edward, 1840-1911
It was getting toward evening, and the solemn stillness of the High
Alps was broken only by the sound of rushing water or of falling rocks.
If the jump should be successful, well: if not, I fell into that
horrible chasm, to be frozen in, or drowned in that gurgling, rushing
water. Everything depended on that jump. Again I asked myself, “Can it
be done?” It _must_ be. So, finding my stick was useless, I threw it
and the sketch-book to the ice, and first retreating as far as
possible, ran forward with all my might, took the leap, barely reached
the other side, and fell awkwardly on my knees. Almost at the same
moment a shower of stones fell on the spot from which I had jumped.
The glacier was crossed without further trouble, but the Riffel, which
was then a very small building, was crammed with tourists, and could
not take me in. As the way down was unknown to me, some of the people
obligingly suggested getting a man at the châlets, otherwise the path
would be certainly lost in the forest. On arriving at the châlets no
man could be found, and the lights of Zermatt, shining through the
trees, seemed to say, “Never mind a guide, but come along down: we’ll
show you the way;” so off I went through the forest, going straight
toward them. The path was lost in a moment, and was never recovered: I
was tripped up by pine roots, I tumbled over rhododendron bushes, I
fell over rocks. The night was pitch-dark, and after a time the lights
of Zermatt became obscure or went out altogether. By a series of slides
or falls, or evolutions more or less disagreeable, the descent through
the forest was at length accomplished, but torrents of a formidable
character had still to be passed before one could arrive at Zermatt. I
felt my way about for hours, almost hopelessly, by an exhaustive
process at last discovering a bridge, and about midnight, covered with
dirt and scratches, re-entered the inn which I had quitted in the
morning.
Others besides tourists got into difficulties. A day or two afterward,
when on the way to my old station near the Hörnli, I met a stout curé
who had essayed to cross the Théodule pass. His strength or his wind
had failed, and he was being carried down, a helpless bundle and a
ridiculous spectacle, on the back of a lanky guide, while the peasants
stood by with folded hands, their reverence for the Church almost
overcome by their sense of the ludicrous.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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