Seaward Sussex: The South Downs from End to EndHolmes, Edric
History
Seaward Sussex: The South Downs from End to End
Holmes, Edric
Sussex (England) -- Description and travel
To explore the peninsula a start should be made at Appledram, a small
village close to Chichester Channel and about two miles south-east of
the city; here is a fine Early English church, on the south of which is
an ancient farm-house, originally a tower built by one Renan in the
reign of Edward II. The King would not grant permission for its
crenellation, Renan thereupon disposed of most of the materials and
they were used to build the campanile at Chichester. Footpaths lead
across the meadows to Donnington where is another Early English church
of but little interest. A mile away on the banks of the disused
Chichester and Arundel canal is the strangely named "Manhood End." This
is a corruption of Mainwood, and refers to the great forest which once
stretched from the Downs to the sea. A rather dull walk westwards past
Birdham to West Itchenor, a remote little place on the shores of the
creek, is amply repaid by the fine views northwards up the Bosham
channel, with the far-flung line of the Downs beyond. (A ferry can be
taken from here which would make a short cut to Bosham or Fishbourne
practicable.) Returning past the church with its interesting font, a
footpath is taken to West Wittering and its very fine Transitional
church, the most interesting ecclesiastical building in the Selsey
Peninsula; note the two rude sculptures of the Annunciation and
Resurrection at the ends of a canopied altar tomb; and a coffin lid
with pastoral staff possibly of a "boy-bishop." We are now on that
portion of the coast which approximates most nearly to the original
spot, now beneath the waves, where the first colonists of Sussex
landed.
[Illustration: FISHBOURNE CHURCH.]
At East Wittering a short distance away is an Early English church with
a Norman door. This is not far from Bracklesham Bay, an adventurous
excursion for Selsey Beach visitors who come here treasure hunting for
fossils, of which large numbers repay careful search. To reach Selsey
"town" devious ways must be taken past Earnley, which is surely the
quietest and most remote hamlet in the kingdom, on the road from
nowhere to nowhere; or we may, if impervious to fatigue, follow the
beach all the way to Selsey Bill. The settlement is easily approached
from Chichester and the South Coast line by the Selsey Tramway (8
miles). The charm of the place, which consists in a great measure in
its air of remoteness, is likely to be soon destroyed. Pleasant
bungalows, of a more solid type than usual, are springing up everywhere
between the railway and the Bill, though here we may still stand on the
blunt-nosed end of Sussex and watch the sun rise or set in the sea.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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