English essays; Great Britain -- Social life and customs
So sings, or says, Robert Browning in his ditty of the Pied Piper,
and it is to be remarked that he was not driven to invent the word
"nuncheon" by the necessity of finding a rhyme for "luncheon," for
"puncheon" was ready to his hand, and "nuncheon" was not a creation,
but an archaism, defined by Johnson as "food eaten between meals."
Let no one who perpends the amazing dinners eaten by our forefathers
accuse those good men of gluttony. Let us rather bethink ourselves
of their early and unsatisfying breakfasts, their lives of strenuous
labour, their ignorance of five o'clock tea; and then thank the
goodness and the grace which on our birth have smiled, and have given
us more frequent meals and less ponderous dinners. Lord John Russell
(1792-1878) published anonymously in 1820 a book of Essays and Sketches
"by a Gentleman who has left his Lodgings." On the usages of polite
society at the time no one was better qualified to speak, for Woburn
Abbey was his home, and at Bowood and Holland House he was an habitual
guest; and this is his testimony to the dining habits of society: "The
great inconvenience of a London life is the late hour of dinner. To
pass the day _impransus_ and then to sit down to a great dinner at
eight o'clock is entirely against the first dictates of common sense
and common stomachs. Women, however, are not so irrational as men, and
generally sit down to a substantial luncheon at three or four; if men
would do the same, the meal at night might be lightened of many of its
weighty dishes and conversation would be no loser." So far, Luncheon
(or Nuncheon) would seem to be exclusively a ladies' meal; and yet
Dr. Kitchener could not have been prescribing for ladies only when he
gave his surprising directions for a luncheon "about twelve," which
might "consist of a bit of roasted Poultry, a basin of Beef Tea or Eggs
poached or boiled in the shell, Fish plainly dressed, or a Sandwich;
stale Bread, and half a pint of good Home-brewed Beer, or Toast and
Water, with about one fourth or one-third part of its measure of Wine,
of which Port is preferred, or one-seventh of Brandy."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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