English essays; Great Britain -- Social life and customs
In Miss Austen's books, Luncheon is dismissed under the cursory
appellation of "Cold Meat," and Madeira and water seems to have been
its accompaniment; but more prodigal methods soon began to creep in.
The repast which Sam Weller pronounced "a wery good notion of a lunch"
consisted of veal pie, bread, knuckle of ham, cold beef, beer, and cold
punch; and let it be observed in passing that, had he used the word
"lunch" in polite society, the omission of the second syllable would
have been severely reprehended by a generation which still spoke of
the "omnibus" and had only just discontinued "cabriolet." The verb "to
lunch" was even more offensive than the substantive from which it was
derived; and Lord Beaconsfield, describing the Season of 1832, says
that "ladies were luncheoning on Perigord pie, or coursing in whirling
britskas." To Perigord pies as a luncheon dish for the luxurious and
eupeptic may be added venison pasties--
"Now broach me a cask of Malvoisie,
Bring pasty from the doe,"
said the Duchess in "Coningsby." "That has been my luncheon--a poetic
repast." And Lady St. Jerome, when she took Lothair to a picnic, fed
him with lobster sandwiches and Chablis. Fiction is ever the mirror of
fact; and a lady still living, who published her Memoirs only a year or
two ago, remembers the Lady Holland who patronized Macaulay "sitting at
a beautiful luncheon of cold turkey and summer salad."
But, in spite of all these instances, Luncheon was down to 1840 or
thereabouts a kind of clandestine and unofficial meal. The ladies
wanted something to keep them up. It was nicer for the children than
having their dinner in the nursery. Papa would be kept at the House
by an impending division, and must get a snack when he could--and so
on and so forth. If a man habitually sate down to luncheon, and ate
it through, he was contemned as unversed in the science of feeding.
"Luncheon is a reflection on Breakfast and an insult to Dinner;" and
moreover it stamped the eater as an idler. No one who had anything to
do could find time for a square meal in the middle of the day. When Mr.
Gladstone was at the Board of Trade, his only luncheon consisted of an
Abernethy biscuit which Mrs. Gladstone brought down to the office and
forced on the reluctant Vice-President.
But after 1840 a change set in. Prince Albert was notoriously fond of
luncheon, and Queen Victoria humoured him. They dined late, and the
Luncheon at the Palace became a very real and fully recognized meal.
At it the Queen sometimes received her friends, as witness the Royal
Journal--"Mamma came to luncheon with her lady and gentleman." It could
not have been pleasant for the "lady and gentleman," but it established
the practice.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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