English essays; Great Britain -- Social life and customs
Fifty years had passed, and a Ball Supper was (and for all I know may
still be) much the same. "The bright moments flew on. Suddenly there
was a mysterious silence in the hall, followed by a kind of suppressed
stir. Every one seemed to be speaking with bated breath, or, if moving,
walking on tiptoe. It was the supper-hour--
'Soft hour which wakes the wish and melts the heart.'
'What a perfect family!' exclaimed Hugo Bohun as he extracted a couple
of fat little birds from their bed of aspic jelly. 'Everything they
do in such perfect taste! How safe you were here to have ortolans for
supper!'" But, after all, Ball Suppers are frivolities, and College
Suppers scarcely more serious; although a modern bard has endeavoured
to give them a classical sanction by making young Horace at the
University of Athens thus address himself to his new acquaintance
Balbus:--
"A friend has sent me half-a-dozen brace
Of thrush and blackbird from a moor in Thrace.
These we will have for supper, with a dish
Of lobster-patties and a cuttle-fish."
And we may be sure that a meal where Horace was host was not
unaccompanied by wine and song.
But the Supper which I have in mind is the substantial meal which,
during the eighteenth century and the first quarter of the nineteenth,
formed the nightly complement to the comparatively early dinner. "High
Tea" such as Dickens loved and described--"Bagman's Tea," as I was
taught to call it,--became popular as tea became cheaper. You dined,
say, at one, and drank tea (and ate accompaniments) at seven. But
Supper, eaten at nine or ten o'clock, was a more substantial affair,
and the poison of Tea, so much deprecated by our modern Coroners, was
never suffered to pollute it. In the account of a supper in 1770 I
have read this exhilarating item: "A turtle was sent as a Present to
the Company and dress'd in a very high _Gout_, after the West Indian
manner;" and such a dish, eaten at bedtime, of course required vinous
assistance. A forefather of my own noted in his diary for 1788, "The
man who superintends Mrs. Cazalan's of New Cavendish Street suppers
has a salary of £100 a year for his trouble;" and one may rest assured
that Mrs. Cazalan's guests drank something more exhilarating than tea
at her famous supper-table. "Guy Mannering" depicts the habits of
Scotch Society at the close of the eighteenth century; and Counsellor
Pleydell, coming hungry from a journey, suggests that a brace of wild
ducks should be added to the "light family supper." These he ate
"without prejudice to a subsequent tart," and with these viands he
drank ale and Burgundy, moralizing thus: "I love the _Coena_, the
supper of the ancients, the pleasant meal and social glass that washes
out of one's mind the cobwebs that business or gloom have been spinning
in our brains all day." On the point of precedent, the Counsellor, or
rather Sir Walter Scott, is at issue with Lord John Russell, who said,
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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