English essays; Great Britain -- Social life and customs
in protesting against dinner at eight o'clock: "Some learned persons,
indeed, endeavour to support this practice by precedent, and quote the
Roman Supper; but those suppers were at three o'clock in the afternoon,
and ought to be a subject of contempt instead of imitation in Grosvenor
Square." Supper at three in the afternoon! I must leave this startling
statement to the investigations of Dryasdust. At the same period as
that at which the Whig Essayist, not yet statesman, was protesting
against late dinners, Sydney Smith was bewailing the effects of supper
on the mind and temper:--
"My friend sups late; he eats some strong soup, then a lobster, then
some tart, and he dilutes these esculent varieties with wine. The next
day I call upon him. He is going to sell his house in London and retire
into the country. He is alarmed for his eldest daughter's health. His
expenses are hourly increasing, and nothing but a timely retreat can
save him from ruin. All this is lobster; and, when over-excited nature
has had time to manage this testaceous incumbrance, the daughter
recovers, the finances are in good order, and every rural idea is
effectually excluded from the mind."
I take due note of the word _wine_, but I believe it was usually mixed
with water. Of Mr. Pitt, not a model of abstemiousness, it is recorded
that he drank "a good deal of port wine and water at supper"; and Mr.
Woodhouse, whom his worst enemy never accused of excess, recommended
Mrs. Goddard to have "_half_ a glass of wine, a _small_ half-glass,
in a tumbler of water," as an accompaniment to the minced chicken and
scalloped oysters. Dr. Kitchener, who was a practising physician as
well as a writer on Gastronomy, recommended for Supper "a Biscuit, or
a Sandwich, or a bit of Cold Fowl, and a Glass of Beer, or Wine, and
Toast and Water"; or for "such as dine very late, Gruel or a little
Bread and Cheese, or Powdered Cheese, and a glass of Beer." They vaunt
that medicine is a progressive science, but where is the practitioner
to-day who would venture on these heroic prescriptions of 1825?
I am accused of quoting too often from Lord Beaconsfield; and, though
I demur to the word "too," I admit that I quote from him very often,
because no writer whom I know scanned so carefully and noted so exactly
the social phenomena of the time in which he lived. Here is his
description of Supper in the year 1835:--
"When there were cards there was always a little supper--a lobster,
and a roasted potato, and that sort of easy thing, with curious drinks;
and, on fitting occasions, a bottle of champagne appeared."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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