Seeing Europe with Famous Authors, Volume 3: France and the Netherlands, Part 1 — John Shaqi
Seeing Europe with Famous Authors, Volume 3: France and the Netherlands, Part 1
History
Seeing Europe with Famous Authors, Volume 3: France and the Netherlands, Part 1
France -- Description and travel; Netherlands -- Description and travel
The Louvre is the noblest monument of the French Renaissance. From the
time of St. Louis onward, the French kings began to live more and more
in the northern suburb, the town of the merchants, which now assumed
the name of La Ville, in contradistinction to the Cité and the
Université. Two of their chief residences here were the Bastille and
the Hôtel St. Paul, both now demolished--one, on the Place so called;
the other, between the Rue St. Antoine and the Quai des Célestins. But
from a very early period they also possest a château on the site of the
Louvre, and known by the same name, which guarded the point where the
wall of Philippe Auguste abutted on the river. François I. decided to
pull down this picturesque turreted medieval castle, erected by
Philippe Auguste and altered by Charles V. He began the construction in
its place of a magnificent Renaissance palace, which has ever since
been in course of erection.
Its subsequent growth, however, is best explained opposite the building
itself, where attention can be duly called to the succession of its
salient features. But a visit to the exterior fabric of the Louvre
should be preceded by one to St. Germain l'Auxerrois, the parish
church, and practically the chapel, of the old Louvre, to which it
stood in somewhat the same relation as the Ste. Chapelle to the home of
St. Louis. Note, however, that the church was situated just within the
ancient wall, while the château lay outside it. The visitor will
doubtless be tolerably familiar by this time with some parts at least
of the exterior of the Louvre; but he will do well to visit it now
systematically, in the order here suggested, so as to gain a clear
general idea of its history and meaning....
Begin by understanding distinctly that this court is the real and
original Louvre; the rest is mere excresence, intended to unite the
main building with the Tuileries, which lay some hundreds of yards to
the west of it. Notice, first, that the Palace as a whole, seen from
the point where you now stand, is constructed on the old principle of
relatively blank external walls, like a castle, with an interior
courtyard, on which all the apartments open, and almost all the
decoration is lavished. Reminiscences of defense lurk about the Louvre.
It can best be understood by comparison with such ornate, yet
fortress-like, Italian palaces as the Strozzi at Florence. Notice the
four opposite portals, facing the cardinal points, which can be readily
shut by means of great doors; while the actual doorways of the various
suites of apartments open only into the protected courtyard. This is
the origin of the familiar French porte-cochère.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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