Seeing Europe with Famous Authors, Volume 3: France and the Netherlands, Part 1
History
Seeing Europe with Famous Authors, Volume 3: France and the Netherlands, Part 1
France -- Description and travel; Netherlands -- Description and travel
Cross the bridge. The Tour de l'Horloge on your right, at the corner of
the Boulevard du Palais, contains the oldest public clock in France
(1370). The figures of Justice and Pity by its side were originally
designed by Germain Pilon, but are now replaced by copies. Walk round
the Palais by the quay along the north branch of the Seine till you
come to the Rue de Harlay. Turn there to your left, toward the handsome
and imposing modern façade of this side of the Palais de Justice. The
interior is unworthy a visit. The Rue de Harlay forms the westernmost
end of the original Ile de la Cité. The prow-shaped extremity of the
modern island has been artificially produced by embanking the sites of
two or three minor islets. The Palace Dauphine, which occupies the
greater part of this modern extension, was built in 1608; it still
affords a characteristic example of the domestic Paris of the period
before Baron Haussmann.
Continue along the quay as far as the Pont-Neuf, so as to gain an idea
of the extent of the Ile de la Cité in this direction. The center of
the Pont-Neuf is occupied by an equestrian statue of Henri IV., first
of the Bourbon kings. Its predecessor was erected in 1635, and was
destroyed to make cannon during the great Revolution. Louis XVIII.
re-erected it. From this point you can gain a clear idea of the two
branches of the Seine as they unite at the lower end of the Ile de la
Cité. To your right, looking westward, you also obtain a fine view of
the Colonnade of the Old Louvre, with the southwestern gallery, and the
more modern buildings of the Museum behind it.
Now, walk along the southern quay of the island, round the remainder of
the Palais de Justice, as far as the Boulevard du Palais. There turn to
your left, and go in at the first door of the Palace on the left
(undeterred by sentries) into the court of the Sainte Chapelle, the
only important relic now remaining of the home of Saint Louis. You may
safely neglect the remainder of the building.
The thirteenth century was a period of profound religious enthusiasm
throughout Europe. Conspicuous among its devout soldiers was Louis IX.,
afterward canonized as St. Louis. The saintly king purchased from
Baldwin, Emperor of Constantinople, the veritable Crown of Thorns, and
a fragment of the True Cross--paying for these relics an immense sum of
money. Having become possest of such invaluable and sacred objects,
Louis desired to have them housed with suitable magnificence. He
therefore entrusted Pierre de Montereau with the task of building a
splendid chapel (within the precincts of his palace), begun in 1245,
and finished three years later, immediately after which the king set
out on his Crusade. The monument breathes throughout the ecstatic piety
of the mystic king; it was consecrated in 1248, in the name of the Holy
Crown and the Holy Cross, by Eudes de Châteauroux, Bishop of Tusculum
and papal legate.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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