Seeing Europe with Famous Authors, Volume 3: France and the Netherlands, Part 1
History
Seeing Europe with Famous Authors, Volume 3: France and the Netherlands, Part 1
France -- Description and travel; Netherlands -- Description and travel
The existing Basilica, tho of far later date, is the oldest church of
any importance in the neighborhood of Paris. It was begun by Suger,
abbot of the monastery, and sagacious minister of Louis VI. and VII.,
in 1121. As yet, Paris itself had no great church, Notre-Dame having
been commenced some 50 years later. The earliest part of Suger's
building is in the Romanesque style; it still retains the round Roman
arch and many other Roman constructive features. During the course of
the 50 years occupied in building the Basilica, however, the Gothic
style was developed; the existing church therefore exhibits both
Romanesque and Gothic work, with transitional features between the two,
which add to its interest. Architecturally, then, bear in mind, it is
in part Romanesque, passing into Gothic. The interior is mostly pure
Early Gothic.
The neighborhood to Paris, the supremacy of the great saint, and the
fact that St. Denis was especially the Royal Abbey, all combined to
give it great importance. Under Suger's influence, Louis VI. adopted
the oriflamme or standard of St. Denis as the royal banner of France.
The Merovingian and Carlovingian kings, to be sure--Germans rather than
French--had naturally been buried elsewhere, as at Aix-la-Chapelle,
Rheims, and Soissons (tho even of them a few were interred beside the
great bishop martyr). But as soon as the Parisian dynasty of the Capets
came to the throne, they were almost without exception buried at St.
Denis. Hence the abbey came to be regarded at last mainly as the
mausoleum of French royalty, and is still too often so regarded by
tourists.
But tho the exquisite Renaissance tombs of the House of Valois would
well deserve a visit on their own account, they are, at St. Denis, but
accessories to the great Basilica. Besides the actual tombs, too, many
monuments were erected here, in the 13th century (by St. Louis) and
afterward, to earlier kings buried elsewhere, some relic of whom,
however, the abbey possest and thus honored. Hence several of the
existing tombs are of far later date than the kings they commemorate;
those of the Valois almost alone are truly contemporary.
At the Revolution, the Basilica suffered irreparable losses. The very
sacred reliquary containing the severed head of St. Denis was
destroyed, and the remains of the martyr and his companions desecrated.
The royal bones and bodies were also disinterred and flung into
trenches indiscriminately. The tombs of the kings were condemned to
destruction, and many (chiefly in metal) were destroyed or melted down,
but not a few were saved with difficulty by the exertions of
antiquaries, and were placed in the Museum of Monuments at Paris (now
the École des Beaux-Arts), of which Alexandre Lenoir was curator. Here,
they were greatly hacked about and mutilated, in order to fit them to
their new situations.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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