Seekers in Sicily: Being a Quest for Persephone by Jane and Peripatetica — John Shaqi
Seekers in Sicily: Being a Quest for Persephone by Jane and PeripateticaBisland, Elizabeth
General
Seekers in Sicily: Being a Quest for Persephone by Jane and Peripatetica
Bisland, Elizabeth
Sicily (Italy) -- Description and travel
Jane at the thought of it became quite dangerously
violent. She insisted upon digging up the Eighteenth
Century and beating it to death again with its own
dusty old wig, and was soothed and calmed only by
being taken outside to look once more by daylight at
the delicious marble mince of fragments which the
Hotel Bellevue has built into its portals—Greek and
Roman capitals upside down; marble lambs and
crosses, gargoyles, and corbels adorning the sides and
lintels in a charming confusion of styles, periods, and
purposes.
Ravello, as are all these arid ancient towns from
which the tides of life have drained away, is as dry and
empty as an old last year’s nut; a mere hollow shell,
ridged and parched, out of which the kernel of existence
has vanished.
A tattered, rosy-cheeked child runs up the uncertain
footway—the stair-streets—with feet as light and sure
as a goat’s. An old, old man, with head and jaws
bound in a dirty red kerchief, and with the keen hawk-like
profile of some far-off Saracen ancestry, crouches
in a doorway with an outstretched hand. He makes
no appeal, but his apparent confidence that his age
33and helplessness will touch them, does touch them,
and they search their pockets hastily for coppers, with
a faint anguished sense of the thin shadow of a dial-finger
which for them too creeps round and round, as
for this old derelict man, for this old skeleton city....
A donkey heaped with brushwood patters up the
steep narrow way; so narrow that they must flatten
themselves against the wall to admit of his stolidly
sorrowful passage. They may come and go, as all the
others have come and gone, but our brother, the ass,
is always there, recking not of Greek or Roman, of
American or Tedeschi; for all of them he bears burdens
with the same sorrowful stolidity, and from none does
he receive any gratitude....
These are the only inhabitants of Ravello they see
until they reach the Piazza and the Cathedral of Saint
Pantaleone. They know beforehand that the Cathedral
too has been spoiled and desecrated, but there
still remain the fine bronze doors by the same Barisanus
who made the famous ones in the church at
Monreale in Sicily, and here they find the most beautiful
of the pulpits, and the very biggest Jonah and the
very biggest whale in all Ravello.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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