Seekers in Sicily: Being a Quest for Persephone by Jane and PeripateticaBisland, Elizabeth
General
Seekers in Sicily: Being a Quest for Persephone by Jane and Peripatetica
Bisland, Elizabeth
Sicily (Italy) -- Description and travel
Even so it seemed to-day, for merrily and thickly as
the throngs of naked little stucco cupids chased each
other on the walls, infants of flesh and blood in gay
rags and heavy hob-nailed shoes swarmed over the
marble floor. As if it were a kindergarten small boys
played games of tag around the columns, small girls
trotted about more demurely, or flocked like rows of
perching sparrows around the numerous altars. The
church resounded with the hum of their voices and the
patter of their feet; yet the old women at prayer continued
their devotions, quite undisturbed, and no passing
219priest or sacristan did more than shake a gentle
finger at some especially boisterous youngster.
The sacristy holds the jewel of the Cathedral, a
ravished jewel which does not belong at all in this
ecclesiastical setting—the lovely Greek sarcophagus
portraying the passionate story of Hippolytus and
Phædra. This is the one remnant now left to Akragas
out of all her treasures of Greek art. Found in the
temple of Concord, where the gentle St. Gregory had
probably cherished it, the Girgentians offered it to
their Cathedral, and in that most tolerant of churches
it served for long as the High Altar until influx of the
outer world made some sense of its incongruity felt
even here. At one end of the tomb Phædra swoons
amourously among her maidens, their delicate little
round child-like faces and soft-draped forms melting
into the background in exquisite low relief. Two of a
more stately beauty hold up the Queen’s limp arms
and support her as she confesses to her old nurse the
secret passion consuming her for that god-like boy,
son of her own husband, whom with all her fiery blood
she had once hated as illegitimate rival to her own children,
but now had come to find so dear that she “loved
the very touch of his fleecy coat”—that simple grey-and-white
homespun his Amazon mother’s loving
fingers had woven. In high bold relief of interlacing
trees Hippolytus on the other side hunts as joyously as
his patroness Artemis herself. Opposite, arrested
among his dogs and companions, he stands in the clear
purity of his young beauty, like “the water from the
brook or the wild flowers of the morning, or the beams
of the morning star turned to human flesh,” turning
away his head from the bent shrunken form of the old
220nurse pleading her shameful embassy. And on the
other end is carved the tragedy of his death, the revenge
of Aphrodite in anger at his obduracy against
herself and her votary Phædra. “Through all the
perils of darkness he had guided the chariot safely
along the curved shore; the dawn was come, and a
little breeze astir as the grey level spaces parted delicately
into white and blue, when angry Aphrodite
awoke from the deep betimes, rent the tranquil surface;
a great wave leapt suddenly into the placid distance
of the little shore, and was surging here to the
very necks of the plunging horses, a moment since enjoying
so pleasantly with him the caress of the morning
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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