Seekers in Sicily: Being a Quest for Persephone by Jane and PeripateticaBisland, Elizabeth
General
Seekers in Sicily: Being a Quest for Persephone by Jane and Peripatetica
Bisland, Elizabeth
Sicily (Italy) -- Description and travel
Although Taormina sat apart on her mountain eyrie
with no epoch-making events finding room on her perch
to happen, the stream of all Sicily’s history, from first
Greek settlement to the revolts of modern days against
King Bomba’s tyranny, have surged around and through
her. An American living in Taormina did a kindness
to her native cook, for which in grateful return the cook
insisted on presenting her a quantity of old coins, which
her husband had turned up through the years in their
little garden. Showing them to the Curator of a Museum,
“Madame,” he said to the fortunate recipient
of the gift, “you have a complete epitome of all Sicilian
history in these coins.”
All the different races and dynasties dominating
Sicily from her beginning, all the great cities that rose
into local power were represented in these treasure
80troves from the silt of the centuries, dug by a peasant
from the soil of one little garden.
It was the Greek theatre which first revealed the
Sicily of their dreams to Peripatetica and Jane; consoling
for the vague disappointment of those first days
of dust and rain by the glamour of its presentment of
the loveliness of nature and the majesty of the past.
Greek that wonderful ruin still essentially is, for all
its Roman remodelling and incrusting of brick. Only
the Greeks could have so lovingly and instinctively
combined with nature and seized so harmoniously all
nature’s fairest to enhance their own creation. The
place, the setting, the spirit of it is Greek; what matter
if the actual material shape now is Roman, with the
Greek form only glimmering through like a body of
the old statuesque beauty cramped and hidden under
distorting modern dress? Not that the theatre’s
Roman clothing is ugly—the warm red brick, contrasting
with the creamy marble fragments, has an undeniable
charm, Greek and Roman together. It is an exquisite
ruin of human conceivings, contrived to have
blue sea and curving shore and Ætna’s snowy cone as
the background of the open stage arches, and in the
foyer, the arcaded walk back and behind the top tiers
of the auditorium, all the differing panorama of beauty
of the northern coast line.
Nature from the beginning did more than man for
the building, and now she has taken it back to herself
again, blending Greek and Roman in binding of vine
and flower and moss; twining all the stone-seated tiers
into an herb and flower garden, and putting the song
of birds into the vaulted halls of the Greek Chorus.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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