CORDONNET One or more threads used to outline or define the forms composing patterns of lace. The cordonnet in the heavier Venetian and Spanish point is usually substantial and bold, and in parts gradually swelling and diminishing to form reliefs on the lace, which then suggests an effect of carved bone or ivory. This gave rise to one of the meanings of the term, bone point. These relief portions were often enriched by rows or tiers of picots. In Alençon lace a horsehair instead of a stout thread was sometimes used as a foundation for the cordonnet, which was closely over-cast with button-hole stitches. COTTA The short white linen robe worn by servers and at times by priests. This, like the alb, is sometimes trimmed with lace. FILET _See_ LACIS. FILLINGS These are termed in French modes or à jours, and are the ornamental work (made either by needle or by bobbins) introduced into any enclosed place in the toilé, or elsewhere in the lace. FOND _See also_ CLOTHING and TOILÉ. The word fond, or foundation, denotes the close parts in either needle-point or pillow lace, which were made first, and then joined together by bars or brides, or by a réseau. In some laces the whole work proceeds concurrently. FUSELLI Bobbins. GROPPO A knot. GUIPURE A term long used for any lace of a heavyish texture made without réseau. It is now often used for lace made with a tape, but it applies more correctly, perhaps, to gimp work. IVORY STITCH Or PUNTO-AVORIO. So called because the effect when closely worked makes a surface like ivory, as it is quite without the slight rib which shows in punto a festone, which is the stitch usually found in the various punti in aria. _See_ No. 6, Plate 8.