With your suggestion that many sorts of white thread ornamental work,
from which a development of needle-made and bobbin-made laces can be
traced, are of earlier date than the sixteenth century, I entirely
agree; and in corroboration of this, various public collections, within
comparatively recent times, have secured from disused ancient Coptic
cemeteries in Egypt fragments of elaborate nettings and Saracenic
examples of that kind of work which you identify with the Italian
"Sfilatura" and "punto a stuora." This last-named stitch is virtually
the stitch used in tapestry-making, and it often appears on a small
scale in intricate, drawn and whipped thread Persian linen embroidery,
the practice of which is assuredly of great age. These methods of
stitching for ornamental purposes appear to have been well known in
countries coming at some time or another under the direct influence of
Saracenic embroiderers; but it is interesting to note they are not
identical in character with that of buttonhole stitching, which plays so
important a part in lace-making.
The essential feature of the fabric now recognised as lace lies in its
being wrought independently of any visible foundation such as linen or
net; it is essentially a textile ornamentation depending upon special
design, which can be rendered, so far as needle-point lace is concerned,
by variations of the buttonhole stitch--the "punto a festone" in Italy,
and "point noué" in France--which is distinctively a looping, and not a
whipping or weaving, stitch; and so far as bobbin-made lace is
concerned, by twisting and plaiting threads together.
The genesis of ornamental design for such laces is, I fancy, pretty well
established through the classification of kindred designs, beginning
with those involving simple abstract and geometric forms; these are
gradually succeeded by others with conventional and more varied devices,
suggesting plant and animal life; and these followed by others in which
definitely realistic renderings of actual things are aimed at. Thus,
very broadly, we have three typical groups, and of the first your
photographs Nos. 3, 6, 7, with 29, 30, and 86, give examples; of the
second group there are examples in photographs Nos. 11, 12, 16, 17, &c.;
and the third group is illustrated by Nos. 36 and 37, 90 to 93, and 116.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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