Then, as now, specimens of the world's treasures of art and handicraft
arrived in Rome from all parts of the known world. I see no difficulty
in recognising the antiquity of this alb. That the great Pope Boniface
VIII. wore it is only a tradition, and no evidence is afforded or
vouched for by the authorities at the Vatican. One evidence of its
origin should not be overlooked which is the material, which I believe
to be the real Byssus, or fine handspun linen from the plant _Linum
usitatissimum_ not at that time available in Europe. Dr. Bock remarks
that this Byssus was much sought for in early Christian times under the
name of Byssus of Alexandria.[K] The linen of the Assisi alb is of the
same texture, which I can only describe as crisp and wiry,
notwithstanding that in many parts it is much worn; on handling the
linen it reminded one at once of the linen of Egyptian mummy cloths, and
the Italian curators of both albs, while I must say profoundly
indifferent as to the questions of design and execution, which
interested me most, were all quite certain that they had known no linen
texture resembling it in Italy. It was impossible not to call to mind in
this connection, "Fine linen with broidered work from Egypt was that
which thou spreadest forth to be thy sail."[L] The linen of the alb of
Pope Boniface is slightly finer than that of the Assisi alb, and is
heavily worked with lace ornaments of an Eastern character. The repeated
geometrical patterns, or rosettes symmetrically grouped in squares, are
worked by the needle in punto a rammendo (_see_ Plate 3), and the
curious stitch called punto treccia, or tress-work, is introduced, as
well as the punto a stuora, or matting stitch. It may be observed that
in such early lacework the punto a festone, or buttonhole stitch, is
never, or very rarely found, though afterwards it became almost the only
stitch used in all needle-point, until the advent of the réseau.
[K] Dr. Franz Bock, "Die textilen Byssus," Aachen, 1895.
[L] Ezechiel, xxvii. 7.
In the alb of Pope Boniface there is no buttonhole stitch--the ornaments
in squares called quadri were inserted in the linen of the alb, and were
surrounded by rows of punto tirato worked in the linen itself. The
flounce and insertions, or "falsature," of pillow-made lace were
evidently added at a later date.
It is interesting to see in the fresco by Giotto (1276-1337), preserved
in St. John Lateran, that Pope Boniface VIII. is supported by two
ecclesiastics, one of whom is wearing an alb with what appears to be
lace on the sleeve.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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