In Plate 11 a portion of an early lacis or modano border is represented.
Conventional peacocks and numerous smaller birds are added to the
central design of I.H.S. in Gothic letters--quaint little angels are at
the ends of some of the rays. The inscription has so far found no
interpreter.
The altar-cloth in Plate 12 may possibly have been made for Richard II.;
his two wives were both French, and this piece has the stag, which was
the royal device.
No. 1 of Plate 13 is an interesting border of Sicilian lacis, the design
Eastern, introducing the gammadion, the netting is all made obliquely.
Two stitches are used for the pattern, the punto a rammendo and also the
punto scritto. A vandyked border of punto avorio is added.
In Plate 14 the squares of lacis or modano are alternated with linen
worked with reticello. The design in each square is different.
The effect of the gold thread added to the pattern worked in punto a
tela, or linen-stitch, in Plate 15, is very good, and there is much
variety in the execution of this piece.
No. 1 of Plate 16 is lacis of possibly German work with a design of
vine-leaves and grapes worked in punto a tela. No. 2 is a vandyked
border of English lacis with a pattern of large and small blossoms--the
larger ones resemble Tudor roses. Both these pieces have the punto
riccio introduced.
Plate 17 is a specimen of lacis called buratto in Italy, as the netting
is twisted and not knotted. The pattern is punto a rammendo, worked with
very coarse thread, but the result is satisfactory. This piece must be
early sixteenth-century work.
The two examples of buratto work in the following plate, Plate 18, are
much more finely worked with punto a rammendo. The narrow border is
probably the earliest.
Alençon has certainly more romantic associations than any other
lace-producing town. For the making of lace at Alençon did not begin
only with the establishment of that industry in 1660, of which I shall
speak later. More than a century before that date Marguérite
d'Angoulême, Duchess of Alençon, and afterwards Queen of Navarre, while
living at her castle of Alençon, worked and caused to be worked,
beautiful ornaments for albs and other articles for use at the altar of
St. Leonard's, her parish church. Some of these are preserved in the
Alençon Museum; a specimen of early lacis is especially interesting,
worked in squares with radiating threads, and the centres worked with
punto a stuora as in Plate 17. The specimen of lacis, with gold thread
introduced similar to that in Plate 15, may very likely be the very
piece alluded to by Clément Marot in his odes to Queen Marguérite. She
died in 1549.
"Elle adonnait son courage
A faire maint bel ouvrage
Dessus la toile et encore a
Joindre la soie et or."
"Vous d'un pareil exercice
Mariez par artifice
Dessus la toile a maint tract
L'or et la soie en pourtract."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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