Sewage and sewerage of farm homes [1922]Warren, George M. (George Milton)
Science
Sewage and sewerage of farm homes [1922]
Warren, George M. (George Milton)
Sewage disposal, Rural; Sewerage, Rural
Obstructions in house sewers are frequent. Among the causes are broken
pipes, grade insufficient to give cleansing velocities, newspaper, rags,
garbage, or other solids in the sewage, congealing of grease in pipes
and main running traps (house sewer traps), and poor joint construction
whereby rootlets grow into the sewer and choke it. Good grade and good
construction, with particular care given to the joints, will avert or
lessen these troubles. The sewer should be perfectly straight, with the
interior of the joints scraped or swabbed smooth. When the joint-filling
material has set, the hollows beneath the hubs should be filled with good
earth free of stones, well tamped or puddled in place. It is important
that like material be used at the sides of the pipe and above it for at
least 1 foot. The back filling may be completed with scraper or plow. No
running trap should be placed on the house sewer, because it is liable
to become obstructed and it prevents free movement of air through the
sewer and soil stack. Conductors or drains for rain or other clean water
should never connect with the house sewer, but should discharge into a
watercourse or other outlet.
Where obstruction of a house sewer occurs, use of some of the simple tools
shown in figure 22 may remedy the trouble. It is not likely that farmers
will have these appliances, except possibly some of the augers; but some
of them can be made at home or by a blacksmith, and most of them should
be obtainable for temporary use from a well-organized town or city sewer
department. The purpose of the several tools shown is indicated in the
notation.
=The tank.=--The septic tank should be in an isolated location at least
50 to 100 feet from any dwelling. This is not always possible, because
of flat ground, but in many such instances reasonable distance and fall
may be secured by raising both the house sewer and tank and embanking
them with earth. Cases are known where tanks adjoin cellar or basement
walls and the top of the tank is used as a doorstep; in other cases tanks
have been constructed within buildings. Such practices are bad. It is
difficulty to construct an absolutely water-tight masonry tank, and still
more difficult to make it proof against the passage of sewage odors.
In Northern States, particularly in exposed situations, it is desirable to
have the top of the tank 1 to 2 feet underground, thus promoting warmth
and uniformity of temperature in the sewage. In Southern States this
feature is less important, and the top of the tank may be flush with the
ground. Every tank should be tightly covered, for the reason above stated
and to guard against the spread of odors, the transmission of disease
germs by flies, and accidents to children.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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