Sewage and sewerage of farm homes [1928]Warren, George M. (George Milton)
Science
Sewage and sewerage of farm homes [1928]
Warren, George M. (George Milton)
Sewage disposal, Rural; Sewerage, Rural
=House sewer.=--The length will vary with the slope of the ground and
position of buildings, well, and distribution field. Fifty to 100 feet is
a fair length; a greater is still more sanitary. Wherever possible the
house sewer should be laid straight in line and grade. Figure 18 shows
how this work may be done. Suppose the distance from A to E be 100 feet;
that grade boards be set 25 feet apart crosswise of the trench at A, B,
C, D, and E; that the ground at A be 4 feet lower than at E; that the top
of the sewer be 2½ feet below the surface of the ground at A and 4½ feet
below the surface of the ground at E; the fall of the sewer between A
and E is 2 feet (4 + 2½ - 4½ = 2). If the fall in 100 feet be 2 feet, in
25 feet it is one-fourth as much, or 6 inches. Hence, grade board B is 6
inches higher than grade board A, C is 6 inches higher than B, and so on
to E. The top edges when all the boards are set with a carpenter's level
and fastened in position should be in line. The grade thus established
may be any convenient height above the top of the proposed sewer, and the
measuring stick used to grade the pipe is cut accordingly. This height is
usually a certain number of whole feet. Fixing the line of the sewer is a
mere matter of setting nails in the top edges of boards A and E directly
over the center of the proposed sewer and tightly stretching a fish line
or grade cord; nails should be set where the cord crosses boards B, C, and
D.
[Illustration: Fig. 18.--Setting line and grade for house sewer. To
the observer at A the top edges of the grade boards appear as one; the
half-driven nails are set to line]
If the cellar or basement contains plumbing fixtures, the house sewer
should enter 1 to 2 feet below the cellar floor. If all plumbing fixtures
are on the floors above, the sewer may enter at no greater depth than
necessary to insure protection from frost outside the cellar wall. Digging
the trench and laying the pipe should begin at the tank or lower end. The
large end of the pipes, called the hub, should face uphill, and the barrel
of each pipe should have even bearing throughout its length. Sufficient
earth should be removed from beneath the hubs to permit the joints to be
made in a workmanlike manner.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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