A grease trap should have several times the capacity of the greatest quantity of greasy water discharged into it at one time, in order that the entering water shall be well cooled and the grease congealed. The solidified grease rises to the surface of the water in the trap and is retained therein. A dishpan of greasy water (2½ to 3 gallons) is the largest quantity likely to be discharged at one time from an ordinary kitchen-sink, hence the grease trap should have not less capacity than 7 or 8 gallons. Figure 33 shows three types of grease traps suitable for farm use. In each the outlet pipe has small clearance at the bottom. This feature, together with the =V=-shaped hopper bottom, tends to create a scouring velocity and thus prevent the accumulation of coffee grounds and other solid wastes in the bottom of the trap. A grease trap should be close to the sink it is intended to serve, but not within the kitchen, on account of objectionable odors when the trap is opened to remove grease. It is good practice to place the trap in the cellar or basement, where it is safe from frost yet close to the source of grease. GENERAL PROCEDURE Do not waste money by digging and partly constructing, afterwards seeking information. Prepare a plan and work from it. Get in touch with your county agricultural and home demonstration agents. Advice may be obtained also from extension workers, State agricultural colleges, State and local boards of health, the United States Public Health Service, and the United States Department of Agriculture. Do not guess distances and levels. Use a measuring tape and some type of level--engineer's, architect's, drainage, hand, or carpenter's. Study this bulletin, and design, lay out, and construct in accordance therewith. Remember to: (1) Isolate the septic tank--locate it 50 to 100 or more feet from any dwelling and, if practicable, to the leeward of prevailing summer breezes; (2) locate the cesspool or sewage-distribution field downhill from the well or spring, and, if possible, 300 feet therefrom; (3) select dry, porous, deeply drained ground for disposal of all sewage; (4) do not apply more sewage to a given area of land than can be thoroughly absorbed and oxidized; (5) lay sewers straight and below the reach of frost, ventilate them thoroughly, and make the joints water-tight and root-proof.