Shadow and Light: An Autobiography with Reminiscences of the Last and Present CenturyGibbs, Mifflin Wistar
History
Shadow and Light: An Autobiography with Reminiscences of the Last and Present Century
Gibbs, Mifflin Wistar
African Americans
Travel by sea loses in interest as you recede or are midway between
distant points. You somehow feel yourself located in the neighborhood of
"Mahomet's coffin," and have a sort of a "don't-care-a-continental"
atmosphere surrounding you, with nothing to arrest attention save the
usual incidents of ocean voyage, with no land in sight. The
constitutional promenade on deck before and after meals, with the French
etiquette of raising your hat or cap as you pass; reading or lounging on
sofas or reclining chairs; relating individual experiences of life or
travel; criticising the conduct of others than yourselves; the welcome
sound of the bell that calls you to meals; the last view of the sun as
it bids you "good-bye," with its ineffectual rays, and gently sinks
beneath the horizon; the rising of the moon, shedding its sheen of
sparkling light on the dancing waves; retirement to your couch to listen
awhile to the heavy breathing, and feel the pulse-beat of the iron
monitor as it speeds you onward; finally to sleep, to dream of loved
ones at home.
The suavity of the French is in notable contrast with the more taciturn
deportment of the English; amiable contact has much to do with softening
the asperities of life.
We are now crossing the heretofore much-dreaded equator--weather
splendid, light, cloth suit not uncomfortable, but we are at sea and not
on land. The forward deck is today given up to the sports of the
sailors (the custom when crossing the line), and is now the center of
attraction--running "obstacle races," the two competitors getting under,
and from under a canvas-sheet held to the deck by a number of their
fellows, and then running for the goal, picking up potatoes as they ran.
Afterwards, with bucket of paste and paintbrush, lathering head and
face, shaving with a large wooden razor the unlucky competitor--were a
part of the amusements they imposed on "Old Father Time."
Arrived at Diego Suarez, on the northern port of Madagascar, a French
naval station, having a land-locked harbor, providing good shelter and
anchorage. The town is located on a plateau overlooking the bay. Many
officers disembarked and a large amount of freight discharged. The
resident population consisted of a medley from all eastern nations.
Anchored a mile off and in small boats, and after 20 minutes' rowing we
were landed. A dozen stores, barracks and the hospital on the opposite
side of the bay were the only objects of interest. The large amount of
freight discharged indicated it to be a prominent distributing point for
the interior. Leaving Diego and running down the eastern coast with land
in view, mountainous and apparently sterile, we reach Tamatave and
anchor in the bay.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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