England -- Description and travel; Literary landmarks -- England; Shakespeare, William, 1564-1616 -- Homes and haunts -- England
No one can realise, without personal experience, the number and variety
of pleasures accessible to the resident of London. These may not be
piquant to him who has them always within his reach. I met with several
residents of the British capital who had always intended to visit the
Tower but had never done so. But to the stranger they possess a constant
and keen fascination. The Derby this year [1877] was thought to be
comparatively a tame race; but I know of one spectator who saw it from
the top of the grand stand and who thought that the scene it presented
was wonderfully brilliant. The sky had been overcast with dull clouds
till the moment when the race was won; but just as Archer, rising in his
saddle, lifted his horse forward and gained the goal alone, the sun
burst forth and shed upon the downs a sheen of gold, and lit up all the
distant hills, and all the far-stretching roads that wind away from the
region of Epsom like threads of silver through the green.
Carrier-pigeons were instantly launched off to London, with the news of
the victory of Silvio. There was one winner on the grand stand who had
laid bets on Silvio, for no other reason than because that horse bore
the prettiest name in the list. The Derby, like Christmas, comes but
once a year; but other allurements are almost perennial.
Illustration: "Greenwich Hospital."
Greenwich, for instance, with its white-bait dinner, invites the epicure
during the best part of the London season. A favourite tavern is the
Trafalgar--in which each room is named after some magnate of the old
British navy; and Nelson, Hardy, and Rodney are household words. Another
cheery place of resort is The Ship. The Hospitals are at Greenwich that
Dr. Johnson thought to be too fine for a charity; and back of
these--which are ordinary enough now, in comparison with modern
structures erected for a kindred purpose--stands the famous Observatory
that keeps time for Europe. This place is hallowed also by the grave of
Clive and by that of Wolfe--to the latter of whom, however, there is a
monument in Westminster Abbey. Greenwich makes one think of Queen
Elizabeth, who was born there, who often held her court there, and who
often sailed thence, in her barge, up the river to Richmond--her
favourite retreat and the scene of her last days and her pathetic death.
Few spots can compare with Richmond, in brilliancy of landscape. That
place--the Shene of old times--was long a royal residence. The woods and
meadows that you see from the terrace of the Star and Garter
tavern--spread upon a rolling plain as far as the eye can reach--sparkle
like emeralds; and the Thames, dotted with little toy-like boats, shines
with all the deep lustre of the blackest onyx. Richmond, for those who
honour genius and who love to walk in the footsteps of renown, is full
of interest. Dean Swift once had a house there, the site of which is
still indicated. Pope's rural home was in the adjacent village of
Twickenham,--where it may still be seen.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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