England -- Description and travel; Literary landmarks -- England; Shakespeare, William, 1564-1616 -- Homes and haunts -- England
Once again, as it did on that delicious summer afternoon which is for
ever memorable in my life, the golden glory of the westering sun burns
on the gray spire of Stratford church, and on the ancient graveyard
below,--wherein the mossy stones lean this way and that, in sweet and
orderly confusion,--and on the peaceful avenue of limes, and on the
burnished water of silver Avon. The tall, pointed, many-coloured windows
of the church glint in the evening light. A cool and fragrant wind is
stirring the branches and the grass. The small birds, calling to their
mates or sporting in the wanton pleasure of their airy life, are
circling over the church roof or hiding in little crevices of its walls.
On the vacant meadows across the river stretch away the long and level
shadows of the pompous elms. Here and there, upon the river's brink, are
pairs of what seem lovers, strolling by the reedy marge, or sitting upon
the low tombs, in the Sabbath quiet. As the sun sinks and the dusk
deepens, two figures of infirm old women, clad in black, pass with slow
and feeble steps through the avenue of limes, and vanish around an angle
of the church--that now stands all in shadow: and no sound is heard but
the faint rustling of the leaves.
Illustration: "Holy Trinity Church."
Once again, as on that sacred night, the streets of Stratford are
deserted and silent under the star-lit sky, and I am standing, in the
dim darkness, at the door of the cottage in which Shakespeare was born.
It is empty, dark, and still; and in all the neighbourhood there is no
stir nor sign of life; but the quaint casements and gables of this
haunted house, its antique porch, and the great timbers that cross its
front are luminous as with a light of their own, so that I see them with
perfect vision. I stand there a long time, and I know that I am to
remember these sights for ever, as I see them now. After a while, with
lingering reluctance, I turn away from this marvellous spot, and,
presently passing through a little, winding lane, I walk in the High
Street of the town, and mark, at the end of the prospect, the
illuminated clock in the tower of the chapel of the Holy Cross. A few
chance-directed steps bring me to what was New Place once, where
Shakespeare died; and there again I pause, and long remain in
meditation, gazing into the enclosed garden, where, under screens of
wire, are certain strange fragments of lime and stone. These--which I do
not then know--are the remains of the foundation of Shakespeare's house.
The night wanes; and still I walk in Stratford streets; and by and by I
am standing on the bridge that spans the Avon, and looking down at the
thick-clustering stars reflected in its black and silent stream. At
last, under the roof of the Red Horse, I sink into a troubled slumber,
from which soon a strain of celestial music--strong, sweet, jubilant,
and splendid--awakens me in an instant; and I start up in my bed--to
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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