England -- Description and travel; Literary landmarks -- England; Shakespeare, William, 1564-1616 -- Homes and haunts -- England
The literary pilgrim in London has this double advantage--that while he
communes with the past he may enjoy in the present. Yesterday and to-day
are commingled here, in a way that is almost ludicrous. When you turn
from Roubiliac's statue of James your eyes rest upon the retired house
of Disraeli. If you walk in Whitehall, toward the Palace of Westminster,
some friend may chance to tell you how the great Duke of Wellington
walked there, in the feebleness of his age, from the Horse Guards to the
House of Lords; and with what pleased complacency the old warrior used
to boast of his skill in threading a crowded thoroughfare,--unaware that
the police, acting by particular command, protected his revered person
from errant cabs and pushing pedestrians. As I strolled one day past
Lambeth Palace it happened that the palace gates were suddenly unclosed
and that His Grace the Archbishop of Canterbury came forth, on
horseback, from that episcopal residence, and ambled away towards the
House of Lords. It is the same arched portal through which, in other
days, passed out the stately train of Wolsey. It is the same towered
palace that Queen Elizabeth looked upon as her barge swept past, on its
watery track to Richmond. It is for ever associated with the memory of
Thomas Cromwell.
Illustration: "Lambeth Palace."
In the church, hard by, rest the ashes of men distinguished in the most
diverse directions--Jackson, the clown; and Tenison, the archbishop, the
"honest, prudent, laborious, and benevolent" primate of William the
Third, who was thought worthy to succeed in office the illustrious
Tillotson. The cure of souls is sought here with just as vigorous energy
as when Tillotson wooed by his goodness and charmed by his winning
eloquence. Not a great distance from this spot you come upon the college
at Dulwich that Edward Alleyn founded, in the time of Shakespeare, and
that still subsists upon the old actor's endowment. It is said that
Alleyn--who was a man of fortune, and whom a contemporary epigram styles
the best actor of his day--gained the most of his money by the
exhibition of bears. But, howsoever gained, he made a good use of it.
His tomb is in the centre of the college. Here may be seen one of the
best picture-galleries in England. One of the cherished paintings in
that collection is the famous portrait, by Sir Joshua Reynolds, of
Mrs. Siddons as the Tragic Muse--remarkable for its colour, and
splendidly expositive of the boldness of feature, brilliancy of
countenance, and stately grace of posture for which its original was
distinguished. Another represents two renowned beauties of their
day--the Linley sisters--who became Mrs. Sheridan and Mrs. Tickel. You
do not wonder, as you look on those fair faces, sparkling with health,
arch with merriment, lambent with sensibility, and soft with goodness
and feeling, that Sheridan should have fought duels for such a prize as
the lady of his love; or that those fascinating creatures, favoured
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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