The basket was taken out; and Mr. Miller and Henry, passing through
a gate, found themselves in a large sloping field, partly covered by
furze-bushes, and seeming to stretch downwards till it quite touched
the sea. There were no high lands here on either side shutting in the
view; nothing but a wide, wide waste of blue water, sparkling in the
sunshine, and, where it touched the land, breaking into a wide edge of
foam. The noise was incessant, sounding something like the rumbling of
many carriages at a distance, now rising, and now falling, like the wind
during a storm, and every now and then mixed with the thundering roar of
some larger wave than usual as it rushed up the sands, or dashed against
a rock.
Henry, in great delight, set off at full speed down the field, expecting
to reach the shore at once; but his race was soon ended, for he shortly
found himself at the brink of a high cliff or precipice, the face of
which was almost as steep as a wall. A narrow winding path was soon
discovered cut through the rock, by the help of which they climbed down,
and at last stood on the shore. The wind was blowing very freshly above,
but here it was quite calm and mild. One might have thought the season
to be spring, or even summer, for all signs of winter, such as mud, bare
trees, and stunted grass, were left behind.
Close to the base of the cliff there were large stones which had fallen
from above; but a few yards out there was nothing but fine sand, so dry
and firm that, though the foot left a mark whereon it rested, and kicked
up a little piece of sand whenever it was lifted, no walking could be
more pleasant.
But it was not this which was noticed at first. The great sight was the
enormous waves, which seemed to grow up out of the water a long way
out, to rise higher and higher, and to rush on faster and faster, till,
in their haste to reach the land, they fell forward, and, dashing into
a sheet of foam, swept far up on the sand; then, growing weaker and
weaker, they made one last sweep, and drew back as if afraid, but were
driven on again by the new waves, which had formed themselves meanwhile.
Mr. Miller said that about every ninth wave was larger than the rest.
Henry and he counted together; and though the eighth or tenth was
sometimes the largest, they accounted for the mistake by supposing that
they must either have missed one, or reckoned the same wave twice.
Many times, as a wave went back, they chased it as far as they could
go without wetting their feet. The sand seemed to grow dry and hard
the instant that the water left it, so that they could follow it very
closely; but soon another great wave came roaring in, and they were
obliged to scamper towards land as fast as their legs would carry them.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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