Siam and Laos, as Seen by Our American Missionaries
History
Siam and Laos, as Seen by Our American Missionaries
Laos -- Description and travel; Missions -- Laos; Missions -- Thailand; Thailand -- Description and travel
The small tributary kingdom of Korat, north-east of Bangkok, can only
be reached through an extensive malarious jungle called, on account of
its fatal character, “Dong Phya Phai,” the Forest of the King of Fire.
All sorts of wild tales and legends are told of perils from robbers,
wild beasts and malarious sickness――supposed to be the curse of evil
spirits inflicted on those hardy enough to venture into this lion’s
den. Dr. House was the first white man who ever visited Korat, in
1853, while engaged in an extensive missionary tour through the
Cambodian valley, and M. Mouhot came several years later. But the
whole province is little more than a nest of robbers, largely made up
of vagrants, escaped prisoners and slaves. Nine miles east of Korat,
the principal town, is a remarkable ruin of the same general style as
the Cambodian ruins of Siamrap.
CAMBODIAN RUINS OF SIAMRAP.
In Eastern Siam, about fifteen miles north of the great lake of
Cambodia, are some of the most extraordinary architectural relics of
the world.
A trip of several hundred miles through a land where salas bare of
furniture are the only inns makes it advisable to carry our own
bedding, lay in supplies and provide a cook before leaving Bangkok. A
Cambodian servant to act as guide and interpreter is also needed.
A canal-trip due east from Bangkok brings us to the Kabin branch of
the Bang Pakong River. Mr. Thomson describes this as “a romantically
beautiful little stream, where we seemed to have retired to a region
unknown to men, inhabited only by the lower order of animals. Monkeys
walked leisurely beside the banks or followed us with merry chattering
along the overhanging boughs, while tall wading-birds with tufted
heads and snow-white plumage and rose-tipped wings paused in the
business of peering for fish to gaze with grave dignity upon the
unfamiliar intruders. Some were so near that we could have struck them
down with our oars, but to avoid this outrage they marched with a calm
and stately stride into the thickets of the adjoining jungle.”
Kabin is the entrepôt of trade with the far interior. Chinese
merchants here waylay the elephant-trains from Battabong and Laos,
exchanging salt and Chinese or European wares for horns, hides, silk,
oil and cardamoms. Mines near Kabin are said to furnish the most
ductile gold in the world.
Leaving our boats, elephants and a buffalo-cart are engaged. We step
from the veranda of the hut perched on poles to the elephant’s head
and into the howdah. The driver sits astride his neck, guiding when
needful with an iron-pointed staff. A military road from Kabin leads
to the borders of Cochin-China. Sesupon, the first Cambodian town, on
the frontier of provinces wrested by Siam from Cambodia a century ago,
is first reached. Some of the people, including the Siamese governor
and officials, speak both languages.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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