Siberia (Russia); Siberia (Russia) -- Description and travel
In half an hour or so, two bells tolled from the station, which caused
the conductor and engineer to break out their tooting again. This done,
they finally decided to load the engine tender with wood, and leaving
the job to a pair of Chinese coolies, went away to the station to have
another round of tea. In another half hour, they were back, three
bells toll, the conductor unfolds carefully a green flag and waves it,
rolls it up, and pulls a big bottle of snuff from his boot-leg. Having
regaled himself, and sneezed solemnly, he blows his horn again, the
engine toots, and after a while, the train moves reluctantly.
Our train stopped on the plains to have ashes drawn from the fire-box.
The train crew made tea and lunched. When there was no more tea to
drink, and no more gossip to talk, we moved along again.
We stopped eight hours at one station. After two hours waiting, we
attempted to ascertain the cause of the delay. It appeared that the
engineer had some friends in that town, and had gone away to drink tea.
How soon might we be expected to proceed? “Sichass.”
At first this sort of thing is a joke to the stranger in Siberia, in
time it becomes an exasperation, but finally you learn to submit and
become a Russian, and take no count of the passage of time. Their
utter abhorrence for anything approaching a definite statement is most
puzzling.
For instance, if they know the exact time a train is supposed to arrive
or depart, they refrain from telling the traveler. Some say this is a
natural characteristic of the people. I ascribe it to fear of being
blamed if there is a delay caused by circumstances over which they have
no control.
Under the old régime, if a station-master or a conductor, stated that
something was going to happen at a certain time, and it did not happen,
they might be whipped or otherwise mistreated by superiors for telling
a lie. So they transfer the worry of delay to the traveler, and keep
their own skirts clear of trouble.
There is another fact which must be considered, and that is, that to
men in prison, time means little. Next week, or next month or next
year, will do as well to perform some duty. Siberia was a great prison,
and this disregard of time must be in the blood. Ordinarily the
Russian is most affable and hospitable, once he knows you for a friend,
but to a stranger, his attitude is most impersonal and careless.
As the train stopped from one to fifteen hours at every station, I
was able to spend considerable time in the various depots. Their
restaurants were thronged with “famine-stricken” peasants, weighing
some three hundred pounds gross each, enthusiastically discussing
freedom--the while they sprayed themselves with cabbage soup. Hunger! I
never want to look upon such hunger again! More: Never again do I want
to hear it. (Who would guess that goulash is a high explosive?)
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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