Siberia (Russia); Siberia (Russia) -- Description and travel
While we jettisoned our property from the car-window, the Japanese
captain and his orderly looked on in mild surprise, probably sure that
we were wholly mad. In a sense we were. I refrain from including our
comprehensive and utterly complete remarks on all things pertaining to
the Russians, from the time of the first Michael Romanoff up to the
present and into the future.
Having rolled up a fine supply of particularly sharp cinders into my
bedding-roll, and placed it on the station platform, a Chinese took
a liking to it, and I discovered him making off with it. I doubt if
he understood English, but he did get the drift of my remarks, for he
dropped the roll.
Once more my interpreter resumed the debate with the Russian operator,
and the latter decided to send my message. We had a wait of ten hours
for the next train, and I expected to hear from Major Miller in time to
know whether to proceed aboard that train for Ushumun.
The station waiting-room, crowded with poor people either waiting
for trains, or simply killing time and talking politics, was a most
filthy place. According to our standards, they were in dire poverty,
but men, women and children were most contented and good-natured, and
carried on their primitive housekeeping on the floor, and the mothers
performed most intimate services for their children in full view of the
assemblage with a carelessness for the senses of their neighbors which
appalled me.
Yet no one seemed to mind. Barbaric-looking Mongols, in fur boots
and garments smelling of fish and raw fur, came and sprawled at the
long table, and demanded tea and cabbage soup, which they disposed of
like wild animals come to the kill; great hulking Russian peasants,
their heads and faces half-hidden in jungles of long, matted hair, sat
crouched on primitive stools, and ate the kernels of sunflower seeds by
the hour, throwing a handful of the seeds into their mouths, chewing
meditatively, and then ejecting the seeds in a wide semi-circle before
them on the floor.
From the window I could see the rude troikas of the farmers drive up,
with three horses abreast. They sat in their seats, while their women
disembarked from the rude carts, crawling out of the loose straw upon
which they had ridden, to unload bottles of milk, cabbage, and potatoes.
While their lords stomped about the station, drinking vodka in secret
places, from which they emerged wiping their mouths with the backs
of their hands, the women set up the farm products on boxes near the
station, and the market was open.
The mothers in the station crowds sought the milk eagerly. Such milk,
and in such bottles! The latter had evidently never seen water, but
were grimy with old and sticky milk down their sides. The wads of
paper and rudely whittled stoppers used as corks were loose, and milk
oozed up through them, to become a feeding place for millions of flies.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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