Siberia (Russia); Siberia (Russia) -- Description and travel
There was a dining-car improvised out of a small and springless
ordinary box-car, by building a range into one end, cutting a door in
the other, and building a table down the center. Along the sides were
piled our food supplies, our bread hanging in sacks from the roof, and
under the table our feet rested on frozen cabbages, potatoes, and beef.
The cook got off now and then, and having, with mere money, wheedled
the “starving populace” into parting with fat pheasants, threw the
dead and frozen birds into the cook-car with brutal disregard of the
needs of the natives. And as a further example of dire necessity, of
food shortage, I observed at one place some peasants (not pheasants)
so close to starvation, that they had nothing with which to grease the
wheels of their wagons but best Siberian butter! We heard about this
time by cable that the Congress of the United States would be asked
to appropriate a hundred million dollars for the purchase of food,
which food was to be sent to wheatless and meatless Europe in order to
prevent the spread of Bolshevism--that same Bolshevism which had swept
Siberia “as the result of a lack of food.”
Chang, a wily Chinese, bossed the “China boys” who did the cooking and
waited on the table. And a place at the table generally meant being
frozen, or roasted, according to whether one sat at the end away from
a red-hot stove near the door, or near the stove. And it seemed that
the engineer picked out the roughest part of the road-bed to show his
best speed, when we were at meals.
A doctor once asked me to pass the cheese. At the same instant, we hit
a curve, and a whole round of cheese from the top of the pile of stores
behind him over his head, toppled over, sailed over him and alighted on
his coffee.
As we got into Manchuria, the temperature dropped to about forty
degrees below zero. The door of the diner, from which emerged the warm
air, was draped in great icicles, and when the door was opened, we were
met by a rush of steam--the warm air meeting the cold.
The women nurses, having modern ideas of ventilation, left the windows
of their compartments slightly open one night. In the morning the
heating-pipes in that car were useless, for it was a hot-water system,
and the provodnik had allowed the fires in the heater to go down during
the night. The sleeping car, for the rest of the trip, might have
served well as a cold-storage car.
With two stoves going continually in our fourth-class car, even though
they burned Manchurian coal and gave off a yellow smoke, most of
which escaped into the car, kept us comfortable. We were warm, if not
sanitary. And when the weather got to sixty below, I gave up all ideas
of hoping for fresh air while sleeping.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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