Siberia (Russia); Siberia (Russia) -- Description and travel
The Cossack band in an adjoining room played national airs. The
different kinds of glasses were emptied in as many toasts. And to my
great relief, the speeches began. I say relief, because naturally, I
thought the meal was over. Not so. Still the heaped salvers came. By
now, I had reached the point where I could only weakly pretend to eat.
My hosts watched me like hawks, insisting that I rally my appetite.
They showed irritation when I demurred faintly. They demanded that I
eat and drink to prove the unlimited friendship of the United States
for Russia. And I wondered how our diplomats had ever survived the
hospitality of such a country.
At last I saw that my only hopes lay in a limit to the Cossack
capacity. Again and again, I told myself, “They have reached
it!”--only to realize that what I had suffered was but a prelude to the
feast.
At about three in the morning, the vodka and wines having been
exhausted, champagne was served--in large, stein-like glasses. And a
British officer who had just come to observe conditions, was startled
when Irish porter showed up in stone jars. “Why!” he exclaimed, “We
don’t have this at home any more! In England it’s a fond memory. And
here they have it by the case!”
A little supper! And there was one such about every night. I had come
looking for famine: I began to fear I would die of over eating. One
could be forgiven a chuckle. The staff in Vladivostok had expressed
some remorse over having to send me away from a mess which boasted
three courses and a choice of two canned fruits for dessert!
But what about the proletariat of Chita? These officers were eating,
but were the poor starving to death in cold weather? I visited the
open-air free market in a square of the city. The peasants were selling
cabbage, dried salmon, salmon-roe, spheres of cheese, rye and white
bread in tremendous loaves, quail, partridge, pheasant, beef, pork,
sausage, frozen milk and frozen soup--precisely the things I had eaten
at the “little supper.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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