“Enough, enough, nonna,” Ciro interrupted, “the signori are in haste! To
San Domenico now? I will call the _custode_, he is my friend.”
“What does that strip of black cloth nailed across the shutter signify?”
Patsy asked, as we walked towards San Domenico.
“Mourning,” Ciro explained. “Wherever you see it, you may know that in
the house dwell refugees, or people who have lost relations in the
earthquake.”
Every third house in Taormina had this mourning badge.
Waiting outside the church of San Domenico, were two gentlemen from
Turin, a large urbane man, and a slight taciturn person who never spoke.
Patsy, who apparently knew them, began asking questions about the
church.
“I have not yet seen it,” said the urbane man, “but I hear it is the
best in Taormina--“
San Domenico is a fine old church with a soft cracked bell; we liked it
far better than the cathedral. The _custode_, unfortunately, was a
layman; he knew his lesson well, however.
“This,” he said, pointing to a curious picture, “is San Domenico.
Observe the _manta_, real silver, and the chasing--ah! there is but one
finer, the _manta_ of the Madonna at the Matrice in Messina.”
The saint’s head, painted on wood or canvas, was set into the _manta_, a
square of wrought silver, very Spanish in feeling, that filled the
entire frame.
On a quaint old tomb a warrior in armor, a crusader from his crossed
legs, lies uneasily on his side. His name was Giovanni Corvaia; he built
the palace of that name.
“Come see the organ,” said Patsy, “it’s like Saint Cecilia’s in the
Domenichino picture.”
The organ stands in a damp side chapel. It is of wood, painted a soft
green, with gilded pipes and ornaments.
“_Molto antico_, four hundred years old and still in use,” the _custode_
declared. “Will one of the gentry be pleased to play? I will blow the
bellows.”
The urbane Torinese took his seat at the organ; the _custode_ raised the
lid of the keyboard. There was but one bank of yellow ivory keys, much
worn by pious fingers.
“Four octaves,” said the Torinese; he measured the notes with a
musician’s hand, then began to play an air from Pagliacci. The organ’s
voice, like an old artist’s, was still sweet and true, though uncertain
and tremulous. As he played the Torinese talked over his shoulder:
“You know this air--yes? and this? You like our Italian composers? Tell
me where you will find their match! Mascagni, Leoncavallo, Puccini,
Boito--for me his Mefistofile is the noblest of modern operas.”
“Come!” cried Patsy, the concert over, “I have found two portraits of a
jolly old monk, who spent his whole life beautifying this church. First,
look at his work. This pulpit, these choir stalls--aren’t they lovely?”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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