Sinners and Saints: A Tour Across the States and Round Them, with Three Months Among the MormonsRobinson, Phil
General
Sinners and Saints: A Tour Across the States and Round Them, with Three Months Among the Mormons
Robinson, Phil
Latter Day Saint churches; Utah -- Description and travel; West (U.S.) -- Description and travel
Just on the frontier-line of these two vegetable divisions of the
country lies a tract of bright turf-land. What a magician this same
turf is! It is Wendell Holmes, I think, who says that Anglo-Saxons
emigrate only "in the line of turf."
The better half of the journey passed on Sunday, and the people were
all out in loitering, well-dressed groups "to see the train pass," and
at the stations where we stopped, to see the passengers, too. Where
they came from it was not easy to tell, for the homesteads in sight
were very few and far between. Yet there they were, happy, healthy,
well-to-do contented-looking families, enjoying the Day of Rest--the
one dissipation of the hard-worked week. What a comfortable connecting
link with the outer world the railway must be to these scattered
dwellers on this prairie-land!
So through Illinois to the Mississippi. How wonderfully it resembles
the Indus where it flows past Lower Sind. A minaret or two, a
blue-tiled cupola and a clump of palms would make the resemblance of
the Mississippi at Clinton to the Indus below Rohri complete. And both
rivers claim to be "the Father of Waters." I would not undertake to
decide between them. In modern annals, of course, the American must
take pre-eminence; but what can surpass the historic grandeur that
dignifies the Indian stream?
And so into Iowa, just as flat, and as rich, and as monotonous as
Illinois, and with just the same leagues of maize-stubble, unbroken
soil, water-oaks and willows. And then, in the deepening twilight, to
Cedar Rapids, with the pleasant sound of rushing water and all the
townsfolk waiting "to see the train" on their way from church, standing
in groups, with their prayer-books and Bibles in their hands.
By the way, what an admirable significance there is in he care with
which these young townships discharge their duties to their religion
and the dead. The church or prayer-house seems to be always one of the
first and finest buildings. With only half-a-dozen homesteads in sight
in some places, there is the church and while all the rest are of the
humblest class of frame houses, the church is of brick. The cemeteries
again. Before even the plots round the living are set in order, "God's
acre" (often the best site in the neighbourhood) is neatly fenced and
laid out.
And I thought it somehow a beautiful touch of national character, this
reverent providence for the dead that are to come. And just before I
went to sleep, I saw out in the moonlit country a cemetery, and on the
crest of the rising ground stood one solitary tombstone, the pioneer
of the many--the first dead settler's grave. In this new country the
living are as yet in the majority!
Awakening, find myself still in Iowa, and Iowa still as flat as ever.
Not spirit enough in all these hundred miles of land to firk up even a
hillock, a mound, a pimple. But to make a new proverb, "Rich lands lie
flat;" and Iowa; in time, will be able to feed the world--aye, and to
clothe it too.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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