Siwa : $b the oasis of Jupiter AmmonBelgrave, Charles Dalrymple, Sir
History
Siwa : $b the oasis of Jupiter Ammon
Belgrave, Charles Dalrymple, Sir
Siwah Oasis (Egypt)
The Siwans are greedy, when they get the chance, and on these
occasions their appetites are enormous. They have the greatest
admiration for anyone who eats copiously. A certain Government
official, whose fondness for large meals was famous, came down to
Siwa. He attended a luncheon party, which was given in his honour by
some of the sheikhs. The meal was a matter of some dozen or fifteen
courses. I myself, by using the greatest discretion, and only eating
a few mouthfuls of each dish, managed to last out. But the guest of
the day took, and ate, a liberal helping of each course. The Siwans
themselves became a trifle languid towards the end of the meal, but
he persevered. Even the plain boiled rice did not daunt him, or the
sticky oily pudding. It earned him an everlasting admiration in Siwa,
and his name is always mentioned at Siwan parties as a really fine
fellow, “The Englishman who ate of everything.”
Meat is difficult to get in the oasis. When a bedouin convoy arrives
the Arabs often slaughter and sell a camel. There are a few sheep
and goats imported from the coast, but the price of meat makes it
impossible for the poorer folk to buy it. I had with me a number
of dogs. One of them, an attractive mongrel, produced a litter of
pups. Several people asked me to give them one, and I did so. I
was pleased to see how well their new owners looked after them; they
appeared even fatter and fitter than when I had them. Then I went into
Cairo on local leave. When I returned, about a month or so later,
I inquired after the puppies. One of the men who had taken one told
me, “They were fine, so fat and so large——” But “Where are
they now?” I asked. He looked surprised, pointed to his stomach,
which was a very obvious one, and explained that they had all been
eaten last month on the “Eid el Kebir,” one of the Mohammedan
festivals. He said that nobody could ever imagine that I had given
them away for any other reason than for eating. There was nothing
to be done, but I never gave away another puppy. I drowned the next
litter, and it was considered extremely wasteful.
The Siwans eat cats too, and mice and rats. At one time there were many
cats in Siwa and no rats. Now there are rats but no cats. Cats were
easier to catch than rats, so they went first. One man, a merchant,
complained that his house and shop was overrun with mice and rats. He
had gone to great trouble and brought a cat from Egypt, but as soon as
it was full grown it disappeared! Dogs are considered “unclean”
by the Mohammedan religion, and they are never eaten in any other
places in Egypt.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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