Siwa : $b the oasis of Jupiter AmmonBelgrave, Charles Dalrymple, Sir
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Siwa : $b the oasis of Jupiter Ammon
Belgrave, Charles Dalrymple, Sir
Siwah Oasis (Egypt)
Dogs are useful at Siwa both as watch-dogs and companions. My dogs
used to sleep on the high terrace of the house, and they always
gave one warning of anybody coming over the half mile of sand
from the town. Besides, dogs are the most human and affectionate
of all animals, and one gets to feel the need of companionship
at Siwa. It is a solitary life. One either likes it or hates it;
there is no compromise, and most men hate it. Sometimes one does
not see a single white man for several months, and then, when a car
patrol arrives, they stay a few hours in the town and dash back on
the same day. One needs a certain temperament to stand living at
Siwa. In the summer the heat is so great that one does not go out
much in the middle of the day, unless there is urgent necessity,
consequently for many hours every day there is nothing to do. If one
sleeps much in the daytime one is unable to sleep at night. A man at
Siwa must have some form of hobby in which he can interest himself
without needing the assistance of other people. Painting, writing,
photography and reading all serve the purpose. I mention them as they
formed my own spare-time occupations. But without something of this
kind life becomes unbearable. It is an ideal place for painting and
photography. The strangely varied scenery, the brilliant sunshine,
the picturesque natives, and the wonderful colouring, especially the
sunsets, provide a variety of subjects on every side. Siwan men quite
enjoy being photographed, but the women strongly dislike it. Eventually
by teaching my Sudanese servant to use a camera I managed to secure
a few indifferent photos of women. When one “snaps” people they
immediately demand a copy of the photo, imagining that the camera is
also a simultaneous printer and developer.
According to the proverb “Two is company, three is none,” but I
think most men who have experienced it would agree that in an isolated
district three is generally company and two is purgatory. The odds
are one in a thousand that “the other man” will be congenial,
and if he is not life is insufferable. If there is a third man things
feel better, but to live for months on end with one other man, who
one does not really like, results in mutual detestation. This may
sound morbid and unnatural, but one sees so many examples. I knew
two quite ordinary normal men posted in a lonely district where
they rarely saw another Englishman. For the first month they lived
together quite happily, in the second month they quarrelled, in the
third month they took to living in separate houses, and at the end
of four months they were not on speaking terms! Then there are other
men who cannot stand living alone. They have no personal occupation,
they become depressed, take to whiskey in large quantities—or worse,
and therein lies the way to madness.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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