Siwa : $b the oasis of Jupiter AmmonBelgrave, Charles Dalrymple, Sir
History
Siwa : $b the oasis of Jupiter Ammon
Belgrave, Charles Dalrymple, Sir
Siwah Oasis (Egypt)
With the Arabs it is different. They meet about the camps, and
especially at the wells, which from the time of Rebekah have been
the scene of many flirtations and courtships. The young men often go
and sit by the well-head watching the women drawing water, chaffing
and talking to them and, very occasionally, helping them to haul up a
heavy bucketful. I have often seen most amusing “goings-on” at a
well. Lifting up the weighty tins and drawing up the skins of water
gives the girls an opportunity for coquettish displays of neat arms
and ankles, but an infinitely more modest expanse is exhibited by
these Arabs than by the average young woman in England to-day. But
in Siwa if one rode past a spring where women were washing clothes
they would run off into the gardens as fast as they could, and even
when a Siwan man came to the pool they retired hurriedly with shawls
pulled over their faces, and waited some distance away.
In the hot summer evenings, when noises are hushed and the day’s
work is over, men sit in little groups outside their doors on low
mud benches, drinking tea, discussing the latest “cackle of the
palm-tree town,” and watching the piping shepherds driving their
flocks home from the grazing, raising clouds of golden dust as they
come along the sandy roads. The women collect on the roofs up above,
playing with their children and talking to each other. Each sheikh
sits before his house surrounded by a little crowd of sycophants,
sipping tea and adulation, and listening to the latest scandal told
about his rival of the opposite faction. Passers-by are invited to
join in, and if a stranger arrives there ensues a lengthy greeting of
much-repeated phrases, many hand-shakings, and polite expressions. When
one walked through the market-place after sunset there would be a
murmur of conversation from the shadowy white figures sitting and
lying round the doorways, who rose up and bowed at one’s approach,
and then sank down again silently. This Eastern deference is very
impressive at first, but it does not take long to get accustomed to it.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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