Siwa : $b the oasis of Jupiter AmmonBelgrave, Charles Dalrymple, Sir
History
Siwa : $b the oasis of Jupiter Ammon
Belgrave, Charles Dalrymple, Sir
Siwah Oasis (Egypt)
In Siwa there is no lurid night life like that of Cairo, in which
novelists revel. The people go early to bed and lights are very
little used. Even the quarter of the women of the town is as quiet
as the other streets. There are no noisy cafes with music and
dancing girls, and no hidden houses where natives smoke hashish
and opium. The Senussi religion forbids smoking, or “drinking
tobacco,” as it is called, also coffee, which is supposed to be too
stimulating for the passions, and for this reason tea is the universal
drink. Life is a very leisurely affair, a pleasant monotony, and
“Bukra—inshallah!”—to-morrow, if God wills—is the favourite
expression. Very few games are played. Chess, which was invented in
the East, is unknown, but one sometimes sees a couple of men deeply
absorbed in a game called “helga,” which is rather like draughts,
played with onions and camel-dung on a board which is marked out in
the sand on the ground.
The younger men, especially the ones with black blood in their veins,
are much addicted to drinking lubki, an inexpensive, intoxicating
liquor made from the sap of palm trees. The branches that form the
crown of the tree are cut off, leaving the heart of the palm tree
bare. A groove is cut from the heart through the thick outer bark,
and a jar is hung at the end of this groove which receives the juice
when it oozes up from the tree. A palm which has been tapped in
this way yields lubki for two or three months, and if the branches
are allowed to grow again after some time the tree will continue to
bear fruit, but the branches grow very ragged and trees that have
been used for lubki acquire a rather drunken-looking appearance which
always remains. One of the favourite tricks of small Siwan boys is to
climb up the palm trunks and drink the lubki from the jar in which it
is being collected by the owner of the garden. When freshly drawn it
is as sweet and frothy as ginger-beer, but in a few days it becomes
strongly alcoholic and tastes bitter, like sour milk. Labourers working
in the gardens always retire to a spring and bathe after the day’s
work, then they enjoy a long “sundowner” of lubki before they ride
home to the town. All intoxicating drinks are forbidden by the Koran,
but in Siwa the people satisfy their consciences by saying that the
Prophet approved of all products of the palm tree, so lubki cannot
be a forbidden drink.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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