Siwa : $b the oasis of Jupiter AmmonBelgrave, Charles Dalrymple, Sir
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Siwa : $b the oasis of Jupiter Ammon
Belgrave, Charles Dalrymple, Sir
Siwah Oasis (Egypt)
The dancers in the centre of the circles move faster, keeping time to
the drums and hand-clappings of the audience, and soon everybody is
swaying to and fro. Away in the gardens outside the town there are
flickering lights and a sound of singing. The great zikr before the
Medinia mosque ceases and all the people come streaming out from the
dark, shadowy lanes towards the tomb of Sidi Suliman, which shines
white in the moonlight with orange lights blazing from its open
door and little windows. The sheikhs walk slowly about from group
to group, each followed by a little knot of men—servants carrying
carpets and cushions, and some watchmen in tall brown tarbouches,
holding staves. The police stand about in the crowd, and when one
walks up to watch a dance they hurry forward and push people aside,
saying, “Make way, make way!” The sound of distant singing in the
gardens grows louder and nearer, and suddenly mobs of men and boys,
mad with drink, half naked, come leaping and shrieking into the square,
scattering fire from their blazing torches.
Then drums are beaten madly, cymbals crash, and the shrill screech
of reed pipes rends the air. The crowd forms into a great circle
round the mass of frenzied dancers who career round, drinking as
they dance, shouting and yelling. In the centre there are a dozen
men lashing away at cymbals and tom-toms. One of the dancers is an
enormous blind giant, almost naked, who flourishes a jug of lubki,
and some of the boys have wreaths round their heads and bunches of
flowers stuck behind their ears.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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