Siwa : $b the oasis of Jupiter AmmonBelgrave, Charles Dalrymple, Sir
History
Siwa : $b the oasis of Jupiter Ammon
Belgrave, Charles Dalrymple, Sir
Siwah Oasis (Egypt)
After some time everybody rises and all the full-grown men close up and
form a circle, tightly wedged together. The old sheikh steps into the
centre and begins repeating more prayers, quietly at first then with
restrained violence. The audience join in, chanting the Mohammedan
creed. Gradually the singing grows louder, the voice of the sheikh
is drowned, and the ring of white-robed men begin swaying to and
fro, backwards and forwards, their voices become hoarse and raucous;
every man jerks to and fro in a frenzy of religious excitement, and
the prayer becomes a violent repetition of the word “Allah—’la,
’la, ’la.” Then the sheikh who leads the prayer gradually slows
down, and the congregation repeat more quietly the Mohammedan creed,
“La ilahi illa—llah, wa Mohammed rasul Allah”—there is no
deity but God, and Mohammed the prophet of God. The contrast between
the performers at the beginning of the zikr, when they are calm and
grave, and at its close, when they are hot, dishevelled and exhausted,
is very remarkable.
Meanwhile the crowd in the Sidi Suliman square increases. From
the various mosques come long processions of white-robed figures,
singing and carrying banners; the light of their torches and lanterns
flashes in and out as they slowly thread their way through the steep,
winding streets of the town, and their voices become faint, then loud,
as they pass through and out of the arches and tunnels. They assemble
in the square, forming large circles and dancing zikrs. In one corner
one sees a ring of old men singing and clashing cymbals; in another
group there are a dozen men banging drums, while a half-naked young
negro in their midst twirls rapidly round and round, then suddenly
falls to the ground and rolls over and over till he reaches the tomb
itself, where he is lifted up by his admiring and applauding friends
and carried away unconscious. Behind the tomb there are fires where
the drums can be warmed, in order to tighten their parchment. Numbers
of women squat on the outskirts of the crowd, huddled in their dark
robes, hardly visible, except when the moon gleams on their silver
ornaments and pale white faces. Some of them are burning incense in
little earthenware braziers, and occasionally one of them creeps up
to the white tomb and kisses the wall, if she can reach it before
being driven off by the ghaffirs—watchmen.
[Illustration: A “FANTASIA” AT THE TOMB OF SIDI SULIMAN]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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