Siwa : $b the oasis of Jupiter AmmonBelgrave, Charles Dalrymple, Sir
History
Siwa : $b the oasis of Jupiter Ammon
Belgrave, Charles Dalrymple, Sir
Siwah Oasis (Egypt)
The present-day Greek colonists of Matruh are not very attractive
people. They are very clever at their trade and seem to become
prosperous in a remarkably short time. They make their money by
squeezing the Arabs, who are forced to deal with them, as there is
nobody else from whom they can buy necessities such as tea, sugar,
rice, etc. The Greeks have the monopoly of trade and sell their goods
at a prohibitive price, quite out of proportion to their worth, even
considering the cost of transport. Their favourite system is to buy
whole crops of barley from the Arabs before it is ripe, when the owner
is particularly hard up. The Administration, to a certain extent, is
able to check excessive profiteering, but there are innumerable ways
in which the Greek is able to “do” the Arab. It seems a pity,
because, in my estimation, the Arab is a much better man than the
Greek trader. Not unnaturally, Greeks are very unpopular. Farther
along the coast, in Tunis and Algeria, their place is taken by the
Jews, but on the Western Desert there are no Jews—so the Greeks
have it all their own way.
There are generally two or three English officials at Matruh,
and possibly their wives, so there is usually more going on there
than at any other place on the coast; in fact, Matruh is a sort of
metropolis of the desert, but at the same time it is very much a desert
station. Lately, when I was staying there, there arrived one evening
an enormous new American car containing two English officers on leave,
and a very smartly dressed lady, wife of one of them. By amazing good
luck they had managed to get through from Alexandria without mishap,
stopping a night _en route_. On arrival at Matruh they asked to be
directed to the “Hotel,” which they had heard was “small, but
very clean and comfortable.” They looked exceedingly blank when
we told them there was no hotel—and never had been—but they were
conducted to the rest house, where they settled down. Next day they
complained that the rest house was neither clean nor comfortable. The
greatest disadvantage, to my mind, in all the rest houses on the
Western Desert is the multitude of fleas which nothing that one can do
is able to destroy or even keep under. This car was not the kind used
by the Administration on the desert; the party had brought no spare
parts for it, no servant, no provisions except some biscuits and a
tin or two of peaches, only a few glass bottles of water, which were
naturally almost boiling after some hours in the heat of an August
day, and none of them could speak any Arabic. At dinner that night
they all appeared in full evening dress which they had brought with
them, and, to everybody’s horror, they announced their intention of
“running down to Siwa” on the next day. We explained carefully that
to reach Siwa they would have to cross 200 miles of waterless desert,
and no car ever attempted the trip alone. But nothing seemed to daunt
them. Finally, however, the Governor heard of their plan and forbade
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account