Arab invasion of Egypt — Attempts to subjugate the oasis — Arab historians — The marvels of Siwa — Hidden cities — Emerald mines — Siwans become Mohammedans — King Rashwan — “The Thirty” — Sidi Suliman — Legends about him — Style of living — Quarrel between east and west — Civil wars — Recent disturbance — Browne at Siwa — Hornemann 89 THIRD PERIOD. THE TURKISH RULE Invasion of Siwa — Hassein Bey — Colonel Butin — Ali Balli, the Omda — Hamilton at Siwa, his imprisonment — Punitive expedition — Death of Yousif Ali — Turkish mamurs — A desert firebrand — “The Widow’s War” — Osman Habun — Abdel Arti, smuggler — Death of “The Habun” 102 FOURTH PERIOD. SIWA AND THE WAR The Italians in Tripoli — German intrigues — The Senussi confraternity — Mohammed el Senussi, his life at Siwa — Caves of the Kasr Hassuna — Growth of the Senussi — Mohammed el Mahdi — Sayed Ahmed — The situation in 1915 — Evacuation of Sollum — Capture of the crew of the _Tara_ — Matruh — Battle on Christmas Day — Wadi Majid — Battle of Agagia and occupation of Barrani — Sayed Ahmed at Siwa — Occupation of Sollum — Sayed Ahmed goes to Dakhla and back — Siwans revolt — Battle of Girba — Occupation of Siwa — Rescue of _Tara_ crew by Duke of Westminster — Sayed Ahmed retires to Constantinople 117 CHAPTER IV SIWA TOWN The town — Architecture — Wells — Custom of whitewash — Date Markets — Mosques — School — Shops — Interior of houses — The Roofs — “Dululas” — The Siwan race — Men — Women — Appearance — Clothes — Religious sects — Springs, gardens, irrigation, water rights — Salt lakes — Fever — Spring cleaning — “Sultan Mousa” — A luncheon party — The ceremony of tea — Appetites — Dog eaters — Life of an Englishman in Siwa — Two “cases” — Women witnesses — Bakshish 133 CHAPTER V SUBURBAN OASES Zeitoun and Kareished — The oasis of Gara — The village — The curse of Sheikh Abdel Sayed — A legend of Gara — The Mejberry pass — El Areg and Bahrein — The Arabs of Maragi — The northern oases — Jerabub — Sheikh Ithneini and his treasures — _Terra incognita_ — Kufra — Excavating in Siwa — The “Oldest Inhabitant” his wedding — Industries, baskets, mats, and earthenware — The “Bedouin Industries” — Animals and birds — Snakes, snake charming 177 CHAPTER VI CUSTOMS AND SUPERSTITIONS