Siwa : $b the oasis of Jupiter AmmonBelgrave, Charles Dalrymple, Sir
History
Siwa : $b the oasis of Jupiter Ammon
Belgrave, Charles Dalrymple, Sir
Siwah Oasis (Egypt)
After dinner, when I was sitting outside my tent in the moonlight,
I heard a faint sound of shouting in the distance. I took a couple of
men and walked in the direction the sound came from. About a mile from
the camp we sighted a large number of black Arab tents that showed
up clear in the moonlight on a slight rise in the ground. There had
been a marriage in the tribe and the festivities were being concluded
by a dance.
Two girls were slowly revolving round in the centre of an enormous
circle of white-robed bedouins each holding in her hand, above her
head, a long cane which she flourished in the manner that a dancer
uses a bouquet of flowers. The girls wore the usual Arab dress,
the black, long-sleeved robe and scarlet waist-band, but their faces
were hidden by long black veils, and they wore white shawls fastened
in flounces round the waist, which stuck out almost like a ballet
girl’s skirt. The moon flashed on the heavy silver bangles on their
arms and on their silver necklaces and earrings.
The audience were divided into four parties, the object of each party
being to attract the dancers to them by the enthusiasm of their singing
and hand-clapping. A man playing on a flute and another with a drum
led the tune, which was wearily monotonous but strangely attractive
and a fitting accompaniment to the scene. Gradually the singing became
faster and louder, the white-robed Arabs swayed to and fro urging
the dancers to fresh exertions; the girls revolved more rapidly
and one of them began the “Dance de ventre,” which consists of
rather sensuous quivering movements, not attractive to a European,
but much admired by natives. The singing and hand-clapping became more
violent and finally culminated in frenzied shouting when one of the
girls halted, swaying, before the loudest section of the audience,
and several men flung themselves on their knees, kissing her feet and
exclaiming at her beauty, which if it existed was quite invisible to
me, and praising her skill in dancing with high-flown speeches and
compliments. Outside the circle of brown-faced, white-clad Arabs,
and in the doors of the tents, there were a crowd of women watching
the performance, and a group of dancing girls stood whispering to
each other under their black veils, tinkling their ornaments, as they
waited to step into the circle and relieve their companions.
I stood watching the dancing for a long time, and then returned to
my tent. As I walked away I heard hoarse shouts of “Ya Ayesha—ya
Khadiga,” as two new girls began to dance, and the whistle and the
drum struck up another queer little melody. Not until almost dawn
did quiet reign again on the desert, broken only by the occasional
wail of a wandering jackal.
_26th._
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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