Siwa : $b the oasis of Jupiter AmmonBelgrave, Charles Dalrymple, Sir
History
Siwa : $b the oasis of Jupiter Ammon
Belgrave, Charles Dalrymple, Sir
Siwah Oasis (Egypt)
Your interesting account of the visit of Alexander the Great (331
B.C.) to the Oracle, when, marching along the coast to Matruh,
he turned south and underwent great hardships before reaching his
destination, recalls a very different journey I made to Sollum in
1917. Leaving Alexandria by train for Behig, I there found a fleet of
armoured motorcars awaiting me, and the journey to and from Sollum,
then garrisoned by British troops, was comfortably accomplished
in four days. To my great regret I was too pressed for time to be
able to visit Siwa, where, “on all hands springs of water gushed
forth . . . that human ants’ nest, fabricated for the most part of
rock-salt, mud and palm trunks . . . to which the Great War surging
round the world had brought the drone of aeroplanes, the hum of
armoured cars and rattle of machine guns.”
Your reference in Chapter V to the wonderful work carried on by
Miss Nina Baird amongst the bedouin women and children rendered
destitute in consequence of the Senussi invasion, recalls several
visits Lady Wingate and I made to Amria—the village in the desert
west of Alexandria and not far from Lake Mariut, where, as you say,
this courageous lady worked practically singlehanded in teaching these
desert waifs and strays to make carpets—thus starting an industry
and giving the women and children a means of livelihood and a form of
protection which for ever will be remembered with gratitude by the
Western Arabs. A daughter of that well-known and greatly respected
Scotsman, Sir Alexander Baird, an excellent horsewoman, a good Arabic
scholar, and one who performed important services in the Egyptian
troubles in the spring of 1919, Miss Baird’s energetic efforts
throughout the war utterly exhausted her strength, and she fell
an easy victim to typhoid soon after—to be followed a few months
later by her talented father, and thus was the British community in
Egypt deprived of two valuable lives who had endeared themselves to
Europeans and natives alike and whose loss is deplored by all. On my
last visit the carpet-making industry was about to be removed from
Amria to an imposing structure built by Captain Jennings Bramley
at Behig, the headquarters of the Eastern District of the Western
Desert. Here this energetic official had also constructed, out of
the ruins of an old building, a mediæval-looking stronghold, where
we spent a few days and visited the ruined church of St. Menas, to
which you make a passing reference in Chapter I. This buried Christian
city is locally known as Abu Menas, and for long defied discovery,
as it had not occurred to those in search of it to connect it with
the Arab name of Abumna, until the German explorer, Kauffmann, and
his companion lighted on the historic spot, which lies from fifty
to fifty-five miles south-west of Alexandria. Your readers may be
interested to know that Menas was an Egyptian in the Roman army
who became a Christian and took the opportunity of a great public
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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