Scotland -- Description and travel; Scotland -- History
The barometer has fallen somewhat since last night, and there are
ominous clouds looming here and there in the west; but the sky remains
clear blue overhead, the white road is dry and dazzling, and the sun
as hot as could be wished. Out to the eastward the way turns along the
top of the quaint fisher town, with its narrow lanes and throng of low
thatched roofs, till at a sudden dip the little bridge crosses the
river. Sweet Nairn! The river has given its name to the town. A hundred
and forty years have passed since these clear waters, wimpling now in
the sun, brought down from the western moors the life-blood of many a
wounded Highlander fallen on dark Culloden. The sunny waters keep a
memory still of the flight of the last Prince Charles.
Like a crow-flight eastward the road runs straight, having on the left,
beyond the rabbit warren, the silver sand-beach and the sea, and on
the right the fertile farm-lands and the farther woods. The white line
glistening on the horizon far along the coast to the east, is a glimpse
of the treacherous hillocks of the Culbin shifting sands. They are
shining now like silver in the calm forenoon; but, as if restless under
an eternal ban, they keep for ever moving, and, when stirred by the
strong sea-wind, they are wont yet to rise and rush and overwhelm, like
the dust-storm of the Sahara. For two hundred years a goodly mansion
and a broad estate have lain buried beneath those wastes, and what was
once called the Garden of Moray is nothing now but a desolate sea of
sand. They say that a few years ago an apple-tree of the ancient manor
orchard was laid bare for some months by a drift, that it blossomed and
bore fruit, and again mysteriously disappeared. Curious visitors, too,
can still see, in the open spaces where the black earth of the ancient
fields is exposed, the regular ridges and furrows as they were left
by the flying farmers; and the ruts of cart-wheels two hundred years
old are yet to be traced in the long-hidden soil. Flint arrowheads,
bronze pins and ornaments, iron fish-hooks and spear-points, as well
as numerous nails, and sometimes an ancient coin, are to be picked
up about the mouldered sites of long-buried villages; but the mansion
of Kinnaird, the only stone house on the estate, lies yet beneath a
mighty sandhill, as it was hidden by the historic storm which in three
days overwhelmed nineteen farms, altered by five miles the course of
a river, and blotted out a prosperous country-side. Pray Heaven that
yonder terrible white line by the sea may not rise again some night on
its tempest wings to carry that ruin farther!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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