Scotland -- Description and travel; Scotland -- History
A long, memorable day it has been, amid the warm sunshine and the
bright sea-breeze, a day to do the heart good and to tire the limbs
royally--the morning draught of brave mountain air and life on the
white moorland road before the inn; the forenoon ramble, rod in hand,
on the warm gorse-path by the river; luncheon in quaint-flavoured,
wit-haunted company by the blue Kilbrannan Sound, with nothing to
interrupt but the beat of sudden outflying wings sometimes about
the warm cliff crannies overhead, and, on the beach below, the soft
caressing murmur of the secret-telling sea; the afternoon drive to the
far hill-clachan, where the turf roofs were tied down with heather
ropes, where the brown women were carrying sea-wrack to manure their
fields, and where, as a back-sound to the quaint-turned Highland
speech, was heard the thud-thud of the swinging flails; and, last of
all, the return at evening by the high moorland path, with the amethyst
fire dying out on Ben Ghoil in the east, and, in the west, the sunset
heavens aflame with saffron and rose, and the sea a living splendour of
generous wine.
Now it is night, and the air comes cooler over the moor. No air is like
Arran air at night, with its vague herb-perfumes adrift, for stirring
old memories and desires in the heart and new ambitions in the blood.
Upon its clear breath old designs, old possibilities long forgotten,
come back again to make life and hope. By it the vapours of worldly
wisdom are blown aside, the cloud-wrack care of intervening years is
lifted, and one walks again clear-hearted for a time in the April
valley of his youth. Night anywhere has charms for those who think, but
night upon the moors possesses an influence peculiarly its own. The
primeval heath, wild and undesecrated by the hand of man, lies under
“the splendid-mooned and jewelled night,” shadowy and mystic with the
silence of the ages. Abroad upon the moor at such an hour seem to brood
the imaginings of an older world, and the grey stone circles standing
gaunt yet upon the Arran wilds are hardly needed to suggest the memory
that along these wilds, once upon a time, wound processions of bearded
Druids, to practise under the starry influences rites of a faith now
long forgotten. At intervals upon the moor appear these grey menhirs
and circles. Inscrutable as the Egyptian sphinx they stand with sealed
lips, strange monuments of a buried past. For tens of centuries they
have seen the dusks gather and the stars swim overhead, but no rising
sun has wakened them from their silence, and still they keep the stony
secret of their origin, though they could not keep the ashes of the
dead committed to their charge.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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