Scotland -- Description and travel; Scotland -- History
The brambles
on the other side of the dry, grassy ditch show profuse clusters
of bright red fruit, but there are no ripe berries to be seen--the
children pluck them long before they are black. The scarlet hips, too,
shine bravely on the sprays of hedgebrier, the tips of whose leaves
are just beginning to turn brown. A small blue butterfly flickers
across the road, and, rising at the dyke, is lost in a moment against
the blue of the sky; while a silent humble-bee comes by, alights on
the last empty bell of a seeded foxglove, and immediately tumbles out
again disgusted, to continue his researches farther on. Over the hedge
there, on the other side of the road, the oats seem yellow enough to
cut, and among them are still in flower a few yellow Marguerites. The
hill beyond glows purple yet with the heather, although its full bloom
is past. Here and there plants of it are flowering close to the dyke
by the roadside. It is the small sort, the kind the bees frequent, for
they can get into it--the bell heather flowers earlier, and is over now.
But here is our boat. She is already afloat, the mainsail and jib are
soon hoisted, there is just enough wind to carry her against the tide,
and Appin and Castle Stalker, the ruined stronghold of the Stewarts
of Appin, are slowly hidden by the point behind. On the right is the
green island of Lismore, low lying and fertile, with few houses visible
upon it; only the slate roof of Lady Elphinstone’s lodge flashes in the
sunlight like a crystal. And beyond and above tower the dark mountains
of Morven. To the south, in the offing, lie the islands of Easdale and
Luing, famous for their slates.
Down we drift, past the Black Isle, to the narrows of Eriska. The
tide is still running in towards Loch Creran, and the passage, which
otherwise would have been difficult among the eddies and currents,
is easily and quickly made. An immense volume of water must pour to
and fro through that narrow channel to fill the loch at every tide.
At these times the current rushes like a mill-race. We are inside
presently, and as the air is very warm, and a pleasant little bay with
a sandy beach lies close at hand on Eriska, there could be no better
opportunity for a bathe.
No sooner said than done. The boat is anchored a little way from the
beach, where through the clear green water the sandy bottom can be
seen some few fathoms below, and one after another enjoys a header
from the bow, or slips gently over the stern. Pleasant as Arcady and
utterly secluded is the spot; not even the crack of a gamekeeper’s
fowling-piece is to be heard on shore.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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