Scotland -- Description and travel; Scotland -- History
But what is this--that jig-jig-jigging of engines? A small steam yacht
is coming into the loch, and--gracious goodness! there are ladies on
board. To cover, all three, behind the boat, hang on by the gunwale,
and trust in Providence to keep the yacht at a respectable distance.
One has no ambition at such moments to court the suffrages even of the
most delectable society. But the danger moves past, and though the fair
ones on deck do smile at the phenomenal movements of our boat, and the
ominous absence of occupants, who is a whit the worse? They will laugh
with us, rather than at us, should we meet.
The breeze has freshened a little now, and will be enough to carry
us up the loch amongst the currents and against the outflowing tide.
Yonder goes the ferry-boat, crossing from Shian. It has a waggonette
and horses on board, and the sweeps carry it over but slowly. The long
low island there, with its few stunted bushes, is seldom visited,
and remains a favourite haunt of the graceful sea-swallows. Two
months ago every grassy ledge upon its sides would have its couple of
sea-swallow’s eggs. See yonder, just beyond the rocky point, swimming
quietly about, with watchful, intelligent eyes, there is the black head
of a seal.
As the boat gets round the end of Craigailleach, the ruin of the
ancient castle of Barcaldine, on the low neck of land across which
the road winds from Connal, comes into sight. In the days of which
Sir Walter Scott speaks in his “Lord of the Isles,” when against the
Bruce in Artornish Castle “Barcaldine’s arm was high in air,” there
was scantier cultivation around the site of that black stronghold. The
shrub ivy was not waving then from its beacon turret, and the retainers
whose thatched cottages are still scattered among the fields around
were rather caterans and pirates than peaceful crofters. Now, however,
as Mr William Freeland puts it--
The freebooters, reiving and killing,
No longer swoop down from their glens,
But delve by the bothie and shieling,
Or shepherd their flocks on the bens.
The mountains in front seem to rise higher as we approach, and to cast
a deeper silence on the narrowing water and motionless woods at their
base. Barcaldine House, as secluded and delightful a spot as any in the
Highlands, with its old-fashioned gardens and vineries, lies hidden
among these woods.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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