Scotland -- Description and travel; Scotland -- History
Night in Edinburgh! The traveller may have seen the sun set over
the lagoons of Venice; he may have watched the moon rise behind the
Acropolis of Athens; but he has seen nothing finer or more inspiring
than is shown him by the sparkle of the frosty stars in this grey
metropolis of Scotland. From the terraced pavement of Princes Street,
that unmatched boulevard of the modern city, looking across the dark
chasm where once surged the waters of the North Loch, he sees the
form of the Old Town rise, from Holyrood Palace low in the eastern
meadows to the castled rock high at the western end, a dark mass all
against the southern sky. Yellow lines of light mark the modern bridges
spanning the abyss below, and windows still glowing--dim loopholes in
the perilously high old houses beyond--bespeak the inhabitants there
not yet all asleep. But these are forgotten in the witchery of the
sight, when the clouds part, and the silvery starlight is shaken down
upon the ancient city; when behind the broken sky-line of roofs and
gables the clear moon comes up, and hangs, a lustrous jewel, among the
pinnacles of St Giles’.
Nor is it only the magic of the sight that stirs strange pulses in the
blood. Standing at night in the Roman Coliseum, it seems still possible
to hear majestic echoes of an older world. But the Scotsman under the
shadow of “high Dunedin” is moved, as nowhere else, by memories of old
glory and old sorrow. Here to a Scottish heart the past comes back.
Here sighed the fatal sweetness of Rizzio’s lute. Here rang the wild
clan-music of Lochiel. Among these old walls, however, something more
is to be remembered than the deeds of high fame. Ever and again, it
is true, amid the gloom of half-forgotten centuries, there is caught
the glitter of some historic pageant. Out of the silence about the
Cathedral one seems to catch the chime of fuming censers and the roll
of coronation litanies, with, perchance, the sonorous accents of a
Gavin Douglas, poet-bishop of Dunkeld; and one thrills again to hear
the boom of the Castle cannon as the Fourth James rides gallantly
away to his death. But behind all this a more tender interest touches
the heart. What of the real inner life of those centuries bygone--the
loves and sorrows, burning once, and poignant as ours are to-day, which
have passed out of sight among the years, and been forgotten? Of some
of these, indeed, Sir Walter Scott has written the story on the dark
curtain of the past with a pen of fire. But for countless others there
is not even the poor consolation of a recorded name. Occasionally,
however, amid the seething of history, or in some half-remembered old
song, a reference occurs, and a glimpse all too brief is had into some
tender and mournful story. And so one sees that, behind the glitter
of a Stuart chivalry, of brave and splendid deeds before the world,
sometimes there lay a shadow, the sigh of a breaking heart, the stain
of unavailing tears.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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